Ah Pai is great, I believe it has become a little gentrified over the decades, less hippy and more Spa's and the like, and more money has flowed to the area, , but such is life, no one can blame the Thais for wanting nice things now after all! I would be surprised if the elements that make "Pai in the Sky" great have all disappeared, it had a very cool music scene (all sorts but lots of quality Reggae ) and I would be surprised if that has changed, and there was at least once a vibrant alternative community up there, and not just "farang" but Thais too... mind you if you end up driving a bus up there, its 762 corners on the way up (and the way down too funnily enough) Its quite a ride... and can turn the stomach.... especially if you have had a few beers the night before... I learned that lesson the hard way! I had a lot of fun in that part of the world ripping around off road on 250cc dirtbikes (If anyone is interested in doing the same I can highly recommend "Tip Off Road" in Pai) Anyways, yes do get up there if you can, its worth the drive and it is an interesting little corner of the province for sure.