Nihiwatu (now NihiSumba) Resort on the Island of Sumba, voted the No 1 resort in the world by Travel & Leisure, and I had the opportunity to stay there to check it out. Here's what I found.
Getting There :
I took an hour+ flight from Bali to Tambolaka on what wasn't the best of aircraft.
Landing at about noon, I was amused by the quaintness of the new airport building, I was reminded that we sometimes should look at things from the other side too. We imagined our arrival would have been routine to the locals, but for an airport that has an arrival once every few hours, that isn't the case. On our arrival, the airport came alive, people hustled, bustled, stood to attention and smiled a lot. Our car was one of the last to leave the airport and I looked back, noticing the few odd people that worked at the airport relax and return back to their normal.
Driving out of the airport and through the surrounding village, I was struck by the lack of development, the simplicity of people's lives and yes, their poverty too. But there is a genuineness and simplicity in the locals. Give people a wave and they happily return it with twice the smile.
About the Property :
The resort's raison d'être is its great waves. This is a high end surfer hotel. If you're not into surfing, fear not....this property has plenty to offer for a wide variety of people. The resort has a number of room types, each unique to each other and at various price points, though all are quite pricey. During my stay, the room rate included all meals and minibar. The entire property is designed in an eco friendly tropical modern style. I stayed at a room type called Marangga, which along with the room itself, had a private pool, a deck, a garden and another deck lower down offering a clear view of the ocean.
The main feature of the hotel though is its beach and its surf. Beyond that, the resort also has its own turtle farm, vegetable farm, chocolate factory, spa and it also has a treehouse located offsite that you can visit for the day, or if you wish to, you can also stay overnight at.
Activities beyond surfing include fishing, paddle boarding, horse back riding and the property also has a good yoga programme.
The Service :
On arrival, you will be greeted by extremely friendly and welcoming staff. Expect to be greeted by name and welcomed in a fashion that is more akin to staying at somebody's house than a hotel. Every guest gets a personal butler who is there to chaperone you around the property and look after your every whim. Most of the staff are local but there are a handful of expats to make sure the place ticks along well. The local staff aren't the best hoteliers per se. But its their warm hearts and personalities as well as their pride of where they work that is noticeable. And that goes a long long way in my books.
The Food :
We had lunch at the poolside and ordered room service and neither was really enticing. The usual fare of local dishes, burgers, pastas etc. Dinner however was a surprise. It was a completely different experience that showed a lot of class and finesse in mostly modern fusion dishes. The resort encourages all the guests to arrive at a certain time for dinner and its also a time where all the senior staff will try to spend some time with you ; making the dinner feel communal and more like a large family gathering.
The Villa :
HUGE, comfortable and relaxing. The decor doesn't surprise but its exactly what you want in this setting. Most rooms offer a view of the ocean and what a view ! The room had a variety of different spaces to relax in which I personally like. The minibar was stocked with a variety of local treats as well as decanters of gin, vodka and whisky - never seen that before ! Sleep was comfortable but its really the last thing I wanted to do when the option was to just enjoy the spaces you had.
Overall :
Cost considerations aside, this is definitely a property to check out. But do it for several days to really enjoy it. Its a place where you really can tune out the outside world, just relax and unwind. Theres lots to do, but if you're the sort that doesn't like to do much, this place is perfect. Days roll by easily and lazily. I wouldn't call it the most luxurious property I have stayed at, but it certainly was one of the most enjoyable experiences I have had.
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