Sulfur Miners of Kawah Ijen, Indonesia

My life has been nothing short of adventures this year. It started really low with me; facing my greatest misadventure yet. All because I was willing to take risks. Opportunities that helped me sail through came after suffering from depression. I landed my first job and it was definitely more than I asked for. I considered it my dream job. I always hear this quote - choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life. During my first few weeks, I was really living the dream. Creating video content everyday is something I see myself doing for the rest of my life.

But after a few months, I started to see things differently. I saw myself trapped in the corporate world. I was never a creature of habit. Doing the same thing every day bores me. I can’t stop thinking about quitting my job and pursuing my passion. When I finally had the courage to resign, I was scared but I know I was making the right decision. I booked a one way ticket to Indonesia hoping I would find all the answers there and refuel my lost passion. So I hit the road and my first stop is Kawah Ijen.

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KAWAH IJEN

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I’ve heard about Ijen during my trip to Mount Bromo with my sister. A backpacker from Australia was telling us about another volcano they visited that offers a different kind of view from what we’ve seen in Bromo. We had a tight schedule so we weren’t able to add it in our itinerary. We instead added it on our travel list. A quick search on Google about this volcano will definitely make you want to get that backpack and leave as soon as possible. There’s a lot to see and it offers an unusual experience. From meeting the sulfur miners to seeing the blue flames. It’s definitely worth it.

Tourists started flocking Ijen after National Geographic made a feature about the electric blue fire. It is an active volcano located at the Banyuwangi Regency of East Java, Indonesia. From the Surabaya airport we travelled to Bondowoso and spent a night there before starting the early morning trek.

Night Trek

We woke up at 11pm and we still have to travel for 2 hours from our hotel in Bondowoso to the jump-off point that opens at 1am. Ijen is best experienced at night to see the blue flames. Tourists have to trek for 1.5-2 hours to witness the spectacle. It was my first time to trek at night. 2 hours seemed like a quick trek compared to my other hiking experiences but the absence of light made everything much harder than I thought.

_{Tourists are required to use headlamps and flashlights for the night trek.}

Headlamps and flashlights are highly recommended. It was an easy path to trek. You’re actually just trekking on a road but you still have to make use of the flashlight because you might be standing near a cliff already. It’s hard to know since it can get really dark specially when you’re trailing behind other hikers and you only have one source of light. There were a lot of resting for us to catch our breaths and I felt no pressure at all to walk fast since everyone seemed to be climbing at the same pace as mine. The path could get really steep but overall I can say that it wasn’t a really hard climb.

Ijen Taxis

Most of the people I’m trekking with are locals. Along the way, you’ll meet locals carrying what looked like a wheelbarrow. At first I thought that they’re the sulfur miners and they use the wheelbarrow to carry sulfur from the crater. But when everyone started to look tired they began offering their services and shout “Taxi! Taxi!”. Everyone smiled at first and we were thinking, who in their right mind would avail of the service? Why would you pass on your suffering to another person? We were tired and we were just trekking. How much more if you’re carrying someone?

_{Ijen’s version of taxi.}

But the “taxi drivers” didn’t give up. Few hours later and I realized that hikers can actually get tempted of the service that they’re offering. I’ve seen a lot of locals lying down and looking so tired and the taxi drivers would know who and when to approach. And it actually worked! The comfortable seats made them give in to the temptation and pay more just to reach the summit. I was observing the whole time and I can’t help but feel bad about what I’m seeing. There were actually three locals carrying one person in each “taxi” and I can really see that they’re having a hard time moving up but at the same time I’m also seeing the guilt in the eyes of the passenger.

_{Tourists resting from an hour of trekking.}

Blue Flame

After almost 2 hours of trek, we finally reached the summit. Tour guides were offering their services and since we knew that it would be a harder trek going down the crater and that we needed someone to guide and provide us necessary information about the do’s and don’ts, we hired a guide. We didn’t want to risk our lives. Not all the tourists trek down the crater. Most of them stay at the summit and wait for the sunrise. I personally think they’re missing the point of going to Ijen. And that is to witness the blue flame and the mining operation. It was a 45-minute trek to reach the crater and you can already see from afar the blue flames. It was an unusual sight. When we’re almost near the crater the toxic fumes made it hard for us to breathe so we wore the gas masks that our hotel provided. I was scared at first because I was having a hard time breathing through the mask. But I knew I’ll miss a once in a lifetime opportunity if I turn back. Luckily, I figured out some breathing techniques with the mask and reached the crater.

_{A trekker making his way to the blue flames.}

It was a phenomenal experience seeing the blue flames of Ijen. I can’t help but just stare. The river of light is the result of the combustion of sulfur, forming sulfuric gases. Some of it condense into liquid sulfur that continues to burn as it flows down the slopes. Visually, it looks like a flowing blue lava. Experts consider this an unusual phenomenon. Ceramic pipes can be seen around the blue flame. A mining company installed these to speed up the formation of the mineral. The pipes lead the sulfur gases down the vent’s sloping mound and when they cool, they condense into liquid sulfur which we can see dripping from the end of the pipes. Sulfur miners then collect the solidified rock.

<sub>Ijen’s blue flame - an unusual phenomenon.


Close-up photo of the blue flame. It’s really card to capture since you can’t go near it. My photo can’t give justice to how spectacular it is.</sub>

Sulfur Miners

Going around the crater, you will witness how the miners work. It’s one of the most dangerous jobs in the world. They are risking their lives everyday but they are not getting enough pay. Some aren’t even wearing gas masks while working. Health problems could arise due to prolonged exposure to toxic sulfur fumes. Just by looking at them, I know that it’s really a tough job. I actually tried carrying the two baskets they use to carry sulfur and I can’t even lift it. It’s that heavy. They’re carrying 80-100 kilos of sulfur twice a day and sell it to a mining company. And it’s an uphill climb going back to the summit. These guys are some of the most hardworking people I’ve met. Some locals are also carving shapes from sulfur and sell it to tourists. Our guide gave us some from his friends and told us that we can use it as soap.

_{Sulfur Miner.}

<sub>Ceramic Pipes.


Sulfur.


One of the most dangerous jobs in the world.


A local carving the sulfur into shapes and selling it to tourists.</sub>

Stunning Landscapes

On our way back to the summit, what was earlier a pitch black scene turned into a stunning landscape. The turquoise-colored lake is in great contrast with the rock formations. It is said to be the largest body of water filled with hydrochloric acid. That’s the reason why the lake’s color is turquoise. I was surprised to see that only few tourists were at the summit when we arrived. Most of them left to catch their trip going to Mount Bromo. The landscapes look surreal. I can’t help but point my camera everywhere. The fog gives the scene a mysterious feel to it.

Surprisingly, I found the trek going down harder than climbing uphill. Because of the steep path, I was exerting more effort on my feet to hold it and not stumble as I walk down causing it to hurt a lot. All these pain were nothing compared to what I have witnessed. Not only did I experience something great, but I also left the place with refueled passion and gained strength to continue pursuing what I love to do.

I needed that experience to realize what I really want to do in life. It’s been a while since I have passionately taken photographs and make a series. I missed telling stories through my photographs. I don’t have clear plans on what’s next for me. I’m trying out a lot of things. But one thing I know is that the corporate world is not for me. I’m taking another risk. And I know that risking might mean losing everything. But one thing I’ve learned throughout this whole journey is it’s always better to take the risk and fail than regret not taking the chance.

Here’s to the adventures we all deserve!

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Warmest regards,
@legendarryll