36 Hours in Kauai, Hawaii

In January 1778, Captain James Cook and his crew spent two weeks provisioning their ship in Kauai, their first stop in the archipelago he named the Sandwich Islands. They traded nails and scraps of iron for hogs, potatoes, taro, yams and coconuts, but sightseeing wasn’t on the agenda. These days, most visitors come to the Garden Isle with relaxation in mind; sadly, locals no longer accept bags of nails as currency. The good news is that all the raves you’ve heard are true. Kauai is a lush island with just the right mix of amenities and untamed beauty. Amid Kauai’s drowsy, dreamy landscape, you may be tempted to cocoon yourself poolside at a resort. But the Garden Isle is a place that rewards exploration and you won’t have to look hard to carve out your own little corner of paradise

The lei is the classic symbol of a Hawaiian greeting, but sadly most hotels no longer provide them to guests upon arrival. But don’t despair — buying a fragrant puakenikeni lei from Ed the Kilauea Lei Guy ($8, 4205 Kilauea Road), near the photogenic 1913 Kilauea Lighthouse, is a much more fun and authentic experience.

9:30 A.M. BURRITOS AND COCONUTS

Kauai has several farmers’ markets, and Hanalei’s is a perfect introduction to this one-time hippie haven. Broke the Mouth Sauce Company has breakfast burritos ($9) served on handmade flour tortillas and made with free-range eggs, pinto beans and Gouda cheese cooked in a New Mexico-style chile sauce. There’s plenty of fresh produce and souvenirs, and look out for machete-wielding Natalie Nguyen, who chops up fresh coconuts from the back of her pickup truck