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RE: Harvard-Educated Philosophy Professor - "Getting Barreled Is Important!"

in #surf7 years ago

Hello Eric,
Wonderful to meet you too!
How did you injure yourself? How much mobility do you have? I have a great friend who surfs the same break as me in Costa rica... he is paralysed from the waist down but still surfs any size wave! He is a dedicated man! He carries his surf board on his wheel chair and when he gets to the beach he crawls like a turtle into the water - dragging his legs - and board! I know he is in the water when i see his turtle like trail! He then body surfs his surfboard with great skill - often getting BIG barrels! I have been meaning to write a post about this wonderful man ... coming soon!

May the force be with you and I hope to see you in the waves :D

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What a great reply @icedrum!

Thank you so very much for the highly motivating words, this is the kind of human relationships we could all get more from. To answer your questions, in short, I injured myself because I behaved like a young puppy, excitetedment got the best of me and I didn't follow proper prior procedures to prevent poor performances: I jumped off a 6 foot jump on skis, without checking how far the landing was ahead of time and went waaaaaay to far, landing on a flat spot where an icy rot caught the heel of my ski as I had done a turn and a half... My ACL got ripped on the spot. Though I had it reattached, the knee is far from being what it used to be and I am still learning as to what it can or can't do. Meanwhile, the whole body is readapting tot he new paradigm of movements. It looks like I still can do anything, but it sure doesn't feel that way.

Afterwards, I ended up ripping my right shoulder right out of its socket and, thus, entirely tearing another ligament holding the shoulder in place... Last time I went windsurfing in Haida Gwaii, I realized how dangerous it was for my life to go swimming in such exposed ares as the tidal and currents of the ocean provide. I still can drum though and enjoy some serious good times doing yogic exercises trying to stay in some sort of shape. As we say, we aren't going to get out of this one alive. Meanwhile, I sure have been living a few lifetimes already.

I can't wait to read your post about your friend, he sounds like an amazing human being from which many could learn and grow from.

Keep your smile and taking good care, Steem on and, above all, thrive on! Namaste :)

Wow ... i drum too! :D

Namaste!

We are another two soul brothers meeting in synchronicity... Namaste :)