As someone who is in the middle of the prairies, I am jealous! I've only gone surfing once, and it was no more than 3 foot waves with a lot of foam. That being said, I already got so exhausted fighting those tiny waves I ended up puking, so I can only imagine the energy it takes to battles these waves just to get a few good runs in.
Hell ya surfing is super hard if you aren't in the habit of paddling! You gotta get out there more!!
Yeah every day is leg day as a skater, so I definitely need to get in a few arm days! lol