@cryptocrusaders want to appologize for NOT blogging everyday.

Sorry STEEMIANS.

The goal is to record and reflect about OUR Summer-2018 Surfing experiences everyday and immediately after WE finish our session. That way you get the REAL/RAW Inspiration of @CryptoCrusaders [Surfing with Crypto]

Without further A-Do...Allow me to visually paint you a picture...

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The past few days the local surf has been increasing in size as well as the rip current.

"rip current - a relatively strong, narrow current flowing outward from the beach through the surf zone and presenting a hazard to swimmers"

Not everyday can surfers catch the "Most Memorable Wave", to be honest it's usually a DROP IN...STAND...RIDE...for a few seconds...and off the board!

Believe it or NOT the "Most Memorable" was the STRONG RIP CURRENT Again today.

Normally we get out after drifting 2-3 life guard stations and re enter the water so we don't drift too far from our vehicles. Today we drifted 6 life guard stations. Now I cannot leave you hanging without a wave...

After finally making it past the 3-4 Foot Sets...the other CryptoCrusader separated from ME fast and I was all alone which I prefer.

• 1st wave paddled into it just to get a feel and take a quick look at the WALL and paddled out of the DROP!

• 2nd wave DROPPED IN...IMMEDIATELY felt the instant lift and steep dropping fall, didn't need to paddle and already position to place my feet on the board, but wait!!!

(Slow-Mo Visual)

Short board at a -60° angle just released my hands from board and immediately swiped my board out of the way...

Heheeheheeeee....WIPEOUT!

I totally chickened out of that 5 foot WALL DROP.

[NOT TODAY]

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• 3rd wave 3 footer normal nothing special back side RIDE which lasted 3 seconds...ehhh...

Until next time...

Keep STEEM N ON,

Frank

@cryptocrusaders