My earliest memories of big surf was spending summers on the Atlantic west coast of England; growing up somewhat "sheltered" in Denmark, seeing (and getting in) 10 foot waves as a 16-year was really something else. I never actually tried surfing... but I always admired those who did; there must be quite an allure there; not that much of an adrenaline junkie.
Cool memory, though!
Yes, feeling the power of the waves is quite humbling... Until you are in them and experience it, it is difficult to imagine.
The allure is tremendous, especially once you have experienced riding a wave. And for me, at least, I don't think it is an adrenaline thing. There is a pure joy that I have on that dynamic roller coaster that I've found nowhere else. It is difficult to convey, but undeniable.
Thanks for your reflection on this!