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RE: Killer Big Waves - A True Surfing Story

in #story7 years ago

Thanks, Mere, for reading my story! :)

Trust me, you would love surfing! Sometime I should tell more of the story of how I began... Yet another story to write! :D

I only wish I had started much earlier in life! And yes, it is hard, but more than worth it. I've never been super-coordinated myself. It took me a month before I stood up for the first time... All the effort I spent has been repaid exponentially...

Yes, I will write that story (singing surfboard) one day soon! ;)