"When you make a mistake, the ocean gives you an instant reminder. You get punished. If golf clubs could shock you every time you hit the ball wrong, we'd probably learn how to play golf pretty well."
- Laird Hamilton, Famous Big Wave Surfer -
A true story from September, 2001.
This is an excerpt from my personal surfing diary, originally written as an email to a friend.
The surf was intimidating.
Image courtesy of Oliver Raatz and http://unsplash.com
The surf was Killer Big today...
I had to battle my way to make it outside in front of the Carlsbad power plant. It was tough getting the measure of the waves, because they were quite chaotic. The tide was high, and reflections were bouncing back off of the rocks.
As things turned out, I got caught inside several times and was "worked" repeatedly.
When I finally started moving on a big right (the wave was maybe a head and a half high), I was well lined up and traveling at a good clip. I can tell when I'm moving fast, because my board starts to sing to me... Ah, but that's another story...
I took my time getting up.
Just as I started to get to my feet, I hit a rather large bump that was coming up the face of the wave as it crested. Sadly, it threw off...
That wave would have been one sweet ride if I hadn't gotten pitched!
As the day turned out, despite my best efforts, I only had one rather short ride. I decided I would ride it all the way in and call it a day.
Overall, I got my exercise. :) On a really rough day like this, with such large waves, I was just glad to get out alive.
I was glad to get out alive.
Image courtesy of Nathan Dumlao and http://unsplash.com
Maybe tomorrow will be cleaner?
We can only hope.
~FIN~
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I'm terrified of the ocean. Never enjoyed the beach. You must be brave to go out in conditions like that.
Ah, my dear... I wish I knew how to cure you!
The ocean is one of my favorite places, and surfing is majestic magnificence embodied! Once you experience it, there is nothing else that will do...
Thanks for checking in! :D
I love to surf but this sounds like a heavy day, perhaps out of my comfort zone. Thanks for sharing your story.
In the course of my surfing experience, I have found it important to do what I call "push the envelope."
While I do believe that a surfer's "comfort zone" is a very important feedback mechanism, I think we need to go at least a little bit outside it in order to advance and to learn. Just not so far beyond as to get ourselves killed! ;)
Glad you enjoyed the story, and thanks for commenting! :)
@creatr I know exactly what you mean. I'm still fairly novice at the moment so we probably have different size envelopes, but I certainly agree with your point. Everyone needs to step a little bit out of their comfort zone every once in a while as a way of validating themselves and embracing both the beauty and fragility of life. Thanks for your comments.
You're welcome. Thanks for interacting! ;)
My earliest memories of big surf was spending summers on the Atlantic west coast of England; growing up somewhat "sheltered" in Denmark, seeing (and getting in) 10 foot waves as a 16-year was really something else. I never actually tried surfing... but I always admired those who did; there must be quite an allure there; not that much of an adrenaline junkie.
Cool memory, though!
Yes, feeling the power of the waves is quite humbling... Until you are in them and experience it, it is difficult to imagine.
The allure is tremendous, especially once you have experienced riding a wave. And for me, at least, I don't think it is an adrenaline thing. There is a pure joy that I have on that dynamic roller coaster that I've found nowhere else. It is difficult to convey, but undeniable.
Thanks for your reflection on this!
I would have SO not made it out alive...I can't even imagine surfing or what it must be like! I'm sure it's a thrill, though. Thanks for giving me some insight to what it might be like (and why I should just stay away...ha!)
No, NOOOO..., don't stay away! :O
Surfing is the greatest sport in the world! :D Once you experience it, you are "hooked."
Then you just need to exercise good judgement, and only stretch your limits a little at a time... ;)
Thanks for your visit! And, do try it if you ever have the chance! ;)
Well, I guess it helps my cause that I am land-locked! Is surfing in lakes a thing? Oh, wait, that's called paddle boarding :). That's probably more my speed! Maybe if I ever make it to Hawaii...
Actually, there are quite a few who surf Lake Michigan, and possibly others of the great lakes. :D
And so, you're not "off the hook" yet...
However, if you ever visit the ocean, get someone to give you a lesson or two! ;)
Right! I would never just go out and try it on my own. That would be a complete disaster!
Cool story. Thank you for sharing.
Followed :)
Thank you!
Please check out my Library for more good reading... Just click the GIF below.
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Upvoted!
TY
That sounds exciting! But dangerous. I think I prefer reading about the adventure than trying it out for myself lol. I think I'm good surfing the internet anyway. Stay safe!
Thanks! :D I'll be careful.
Knowing nothing about surfing, it was fun to 'get inside your head' and learn about your experience. Was the following day "cleaner"?
Also, thanks for including a link to your SilverEngines Proton. I have never heard of MRSA before.
Hello, @jannell!
I don't remember the day after that adventure... However, I do remember the days after this story:
The Thursday and Friday after "Big Wednesday" were some of the best surfing days of my life... Big enough to be awesome fun, but not so big as to be life-threatening... ;)
I appreciate your visit, and that you had a look at the proton... Please let me know if you have any questions?
;)
Will do! Gonna check out your 'Big Wednesday' post tomorrow
:) :) :) :) :)
Good story @creatr i'm following you please follow me and give me upvoted
TY
Surfing is one of those things that I don't think I will ever do. I'm one of the proud in the crowd and always so amazed by the skill needed to surf! Honestly, sometimes I fall over for walking LOL so balancing on a board would be nearly impossible, I think! :D
I want to hear about how your board sings to you.
Thanks, Mere, for reading my story! :)
Trust me, you would love surfing! Sometime I should tell more of the story of how I began... Yet another story to write! :D
I only wish I had started much earlier in life! And yes, it is hard, but more than worth it. I've never been super-coordinated myself. It took me a month before I stood up for the first time... All the effort I spent has been repaid exponentially...
Yes, I will write that story (singing surfboard) one day soon! ;)
I have always had a profound admiration for people who practice surfing. What a courage!
Thanks, but it is more a matter of overwhelming compulsion...
Once you experience how wonderful it is, you just can't stay away... :D
But please do read the other surfing stories on my Library Surfing Shelf.
Had similar experience at Pacific Beach Pier once, was after a rain storm and we were covered in welts from the farm poison-run-off.
My advice: Don't surf alone on a day like this, it's REALLY not worth it. It's brave enough you even go out there in that ugly stuff, next time take a friend who also likes a beating.
Thanks for the visit, comments, and advice. Nice to "meet" a fellow surfer.
I've surfed alone in all kinds of conditions for decades...
Farm poison sounds awful... I haven't run into it. I deal with the bacteria in rain runoff, generally, by using ionic silver...
Please visit my entire SURF LIBRARY Shelf...
You know my thoughts about playing with water :(
Indeed I do! :D
Doesn't stop me from wishing that you could experience the utter joy of riding a wave... ;)
I will imagine it but on land were I'm safe lol :)
Hahahahahaha! :D
Oh oh..but i want a long ride ;)
For longer rides, read the other surfing stories on my Surfing Library Shelf. ;)
oh wow..you have a surfing library!! is there surfing 101 ;)
Damn bro, I've heard stories like this from my friend Heidar Logi who is a pro surfer from Iceland. He was surfing near the rocks here in Iceland and he got smashed into the rocks and luckily made it out alive.. This sport is so rough!
Ride safe😇
Thank you, my friend! I will take all reasonable care.
If you enjoyed this one, I hope you'll read the other surfing stories on my Surfing Library Shelf from time to time. ;)
I really appreciate your visit and comments! :D
If you are down town in San Diego during the week hit me up, I will show you the view from the roof of my building. The cost is just a coffee.
I am thinking of making my office upstairs the steemit headquarters lol
That sounds very appealing, my friend. I will keep that in mind and look for such an opportunity!
SD Steemit HQ? Sounds great! The panorama is awesome!
This was from the other side.
Nice!!! :D
I will put up a post and call it FROM THE STEEMIT HQ lol
Excellent. :D
I love the ocean!!
As I'm sure you can tell, so do I. ;)