You are viewing a single comment's thread from:RE: Killer Big Waves - A True Surfing StoryView the full contextaci7 (60)in #story • 7 years ago I have always had a profound admiration for people who practice surfing. What a courage!
Thanks, but it is more a matter of overwhelming compulsion...
Once you experience how wonderful it is, you just can't stay away... :D
But please do read the other surfing stories on my Library Surfing Shelf.