I started surfing in New Smyrna Beach Fl at about 11 years old and ended up surfing all over the country, Mexico, and South America before I was 25. (Then I had kids, moved to Dallas and have never had a chance to go back:(
One of the simplest yet most profound pieces of advice to a new surfer. Dont surf towards shore....follow the line of the wave "left" or "right."
definitely great advice. sounds like you have been riding the most rewarding wave of all... lol