What is truly your PASSION?
After 25 years I realize without the blink of an eyelid that surfing is truly my passion.
I originally began surfing in my early teens on the north coast of South Africa in a coastal village called Salt Rock.
Recently I went back and surfed the same spot again after many years. I also stayed at a great backpackers owned by a friend of mine from years back, also a surfer from the same location. The secret spot! An absolutely awesome experience.
A bit of history: The boards were single and twin fin at that stage with thrusters and quads being introduced not long after. ( 1970's & 1980's ) At the time a local Durban boy on the North Coast was amongst the world surfing champions.
There wasn't a whole lot of respect for surfers in those days but times have changed and it has since become a worldwide sport and an envy of many who haven't had chance to actually catch a wave.
Wave riding is a huge rush and the feeling is absolutely invigorating! Any other surfers would share my opinion and that's why we keep on getting back in the water. There's always one more wave to catch and one more is never enough.
I have many personal stories including the sharky encounters, near drowning experiences plus more, but that's all part of a surfers journey. Those stories will follow:)
Being part of huge mother nature is humbling and breathless. It's addictive and that's why the search never ends...
Time for another epic surf and the chance to play with mother nature. See you in the water...!