Chiesa di Sant’Eufemia, Milan

Hello friends. I invite you to join me in exploring some of the most beautiful and unique churches in Milan. During my walks at different times last year, I tried to capture photos of these stunning structures. On a walk from the Duomo toward Navigli, I stumbled upon a small square where the Chiesa di Sant’Eufemia stands. This church is worth visiting any time of year, but it’s particularly enchanting in spring when cherry blossoms bloom in front of its façade like pink clouds. Being one of the first places in the city to flower, this sunny square becomes even more captivating due to the contrast with other trees still displaying their winter silhouettes.

Although this building boasts a modern appearance, it conceals a history spanning 1,600 years. It is one of Milan’s oldest churches, constructed in 400 ad on lands beyond the city's main walls at the time. Imagine how small ancient cities must have been. Archbishop San Senatore of Milan brought the sacred relics of Saint Euphemia from Chalkidiki, Greece and the church was named after the saint. The remains of the same archbishop are also preserved here.

According to legend, Euphemia was a young girl from a Christian family. During the great persecution of Christians under Emperor Diocletian, she chose to worship with her community rather than participate in a city festival dedicated to the god Mars. All members of her community were arrested and Euphemia was condemned to horrific tortures as a warning. Sharp wheels, blazing furnaces and other dreadful tools were said to fail against her faith, as angels healed her each time. Finally, she was sentenced to be torn apart by wild animals in a circus. After praying for an end to her earthly suffering, the lions and bears released to attack her instead licked her feet. It’s a powerful legend. Now, let’s return to historical facts. Over centuries the city gradually expanded and by the mid-15th century, the church was still outside the castle walls. However, a major reconstruction took place during this period. Federico Borromeo, who would later become Milan’s archbishop and was the nephew of Saint Carlo Borromeo, was baptized here.

Thanks to generous donations the church has been continually restored, with some changes in its appearance. The most recent major renovation occurred in the 19th century, giving us today’s neo-Romanesque façade crafted from terracotta and Vicenza stone. The façade features three rose windows symmetrically arranged. The most striking detail however, is the portico of three round arches resting on marble columns.

The interior walls and vaults are adorned with rich mosaics reminiscent of the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia in Ravenna. The golden mosaics gleam in the sunlight, while the dark blue sky filled with stars evokes a fairytale-like atmosphere. This magical feeling continues in the captivating interior. Unlike the façade, the neo-Gothic style was preserved during the renovation. The frescoes were created by Luigi Cavernaghi, the artist and restorer who spent seven years restoring Leonardo da Vinci’s famous Last Supper. But the church’s connection to Leonardo doesn’t end there.

Inside you’ll find two works by Marco D’Oggiono, a pupil of Leonardo da Vinci: a fresco titled The Marriage of Saint Catherine and an oil-on-canvas painting depicting The Virgin Mary, Infant Jesus and Saints. The apse features a small but elegant altar made of multicolored marble. Overall, the church’s decorations are masterfully crafted and understated, inviting long contemplation.

Take note of the wall facing the altar. Above the entrance, there’s an organ housed in an elegant neo-Gothic frame. The basilica’s acoustics are so impressive that it was once used as a recording studio. World-famous soprano Maria Callas recorded some of her opera arias here and in the 1980s, renowned Italian singer Mina recorded her hit songs in this very church. Jazz musician Renato Sellani even released an album dedicated entirely to Sant’Eufemia and its square.

In just a few months, pink petals will again cover the pavements. I can’t wait to enjoy this postcard-like scene once more. See you in my next post. Goodbye for now.