🥦Mizuo's Travel Blog🥦No.68 - Mitsushima Shrine, Japan, Jan. 2025

First shrine visit of New Year of Snake, 2025

In Japan, there’s a heartfelt tradition called Hatsumode, where people visit a shrine to celebrate the New Year and set their intentions for the year ahead. After some time away, I felt a deep longing to reconnect with those traditions, so I chose to spend the year-end and New Year’s holidays in Osaka. I decided to visit a nearby shrine for Hatsumode. Though it's a local shrine, it holds significant history, particularly because of the majestic camphor tree that has stood for over 1,000 years. This tree, so deeply rooted in the community, adds a special touch to the shrine.

On New Year’s Day, with anticipation in my heart, I hopped on my bicycle and made my way to the shrine. When I arrived, I was struck by the sight of many people waiting in line, each person holding their own hopes and dreams for the coming year. I took a moment to breathe in the crisp air, noticing the little puffs of mist as I exhaled. It was comforting to be surrounded by so many others sharing in this meaningful moment, and I felt a warm sense of connection as we all waited for our turn to enter the shrine grounds.

Mitsushima Shrine, Osaka, Japan

https://osakadai3shibu.kilo.jp/jinja/kadoma/jinja/mitusima.html

https://maps.app.goo.gl/aHzVAHuyyA2szLnCA

日本には初詣という風習があります。年が明けると、先ず神社に行って新年のお祝いをする風習です。大阪に帰ってきて、久しぶりに年末年始を日本で過ごすことになり、近所の神社に初詣に行くことにしました。近所の神社ではあるのですが、実は由緒ある神社で、境内には１０００年以上の楠の大木が生えています。この大楠を囲うように神社が建てられていて、地元の人に親しまれている神社です。年が明けると自転車に乗って神社に向かいました。神社に着くと既に多くの人が境内に入るために列を作って並んでいました。白い息を吐きながら、境内に入る順番を待っていました。

As you approach the shrine grounds, you will encounter a large torii gate. Stepping through this gate is a meaningful act, signaling your entry into a sacred space. The gate, beautifully adorned with pictographs, represents the rich tapestry of Japanese culture. It’s essential to understand that the center of the torii gate is reserved for the gods. To honor this tradition, take a moment to bow before crossing, as a sign of respect to the deities you are about to encounter. Unlike in many Western customs, Japanese people express their reverence not through handshakes, but through bowing—this heartfelt gesture is integral as you enter the shrine.

After you bow and step through the torii gate, you will be guided to the next important phase: misogi, a ritual purification. This practice allows you to cleanse yourself after the bustle of the human world, preparing both your body and mind for this sacred experience. When you reach the water basin just inside the shrine grounds, you'll begin the purification process. Start by gently cleansing your left hand with a ladle held in your right hand. Then, switch hands to purify your right hand using your left. Next, fill your left hand with water from the ladle and sip it, taking a moment to reflect. This ritual is a beautiful way to connect with your spirit, and once you’ve completed it, you’ll feel a deep sense of readiness to meet the gods. Now, with a purified spirit, you are truly prepared to enter the shrine grounds!

境内に入る前に大きな鳥居があります。この鳥居をくぐるとそこからは神聖な領域に入ることを意味します。鳥居は絵文字もあって、日本文化を象徴する形になります。鳥居の真ん中は神が通る道だから人は通ってはいけません。鳥居の橋をくぐります、そしてくぐる前に神に挨拶するために一礼します。日本人は挨拶をするときに握手はせず、一礼します。それは神社に入る時に神に挨拶することと同じ所作です。鳥居の前で一礼し、鳥居をくぐるとまず私たち人がする必要があることがあります。それは禊です。人の世界から来た私たちは境内に入ってすぐのところにある水場で禊を行い体を清めます。まずは右手に杓をもって左手を清め、そして次に左手に持って右手を清めます。そして、右手で杓を思って清めた左手に水を入れてその水を口に含み口の中を注ぎます。体を清めることは心を清めることを意味し、そして、やっと神に会う準備が整います。いざ、境内へ！

Within the serene confines of Mishima Shrine, one can find a majestic camphor tree that has stood for over 1,000 years. This esteemed tree is affectionately referred to as “Kungaishou,” a name inspired by a waka poem composed by Major Aritou Chikusa during the Meiji era. An inscription of the poem is thoughtfully placed at the base of the tree, providing visitors with a glimpse into its historical significance.

As one wanders through the shrine grounds, the striking presence of the camphor tree serves as a prominent symbol of the area, its expansive branches and lush foliage visible from afar. Upon entering the shrine, visitors are greeted by a delicate fragrance that enhances the tranquil atmosphere.

During Hatsumode, the traditional New Year’s visit to the shrine, it is customary for individuals to burn the kamidana decorations they acquired in the previous year. This ritual is not only a means of purification, but it also signifies a respectful welcome to the New Year, allowing participants to cleanse themselves of previous impurities.

三島神社の中には１０００年以上樹齢である、大楠が鎮座しています。この大楠には名前があって、「薫蓋樟」と呼ばれています。由来は、ある和歌から来ています。左少将千種有文という明治時代の少佐の和歌からその名前が採られています。「薫蓋樟　村雨の雨やどりせし唐土の　松におとらぬ楠ぞこのくす」そして、その歌碑が大楠の根元に建てられています。境内の中を進んでいくとその大きな楠の木が見えてきます。大楠はとの地域のシンボルになっており、遠くからもその楠の枝や青々と茂った葉っぱを見ることが出来ます。境内の中に入ると、ほんのりと楠の匂い香とても良い雰囲気のある神社です。初詣の時期には、昨年の穢れを禊で落とし、新年を迎えるという意義もあり、昨年買った神棚飾りなどを新年になると燃やします。燃やすことで穢れと共に浄化させます。

As I stood in line with many others eager to enter the shrine grounds, I could feel the palpable anticipation in the air. Exhaling clouds of white breath into the chilly morning, I warmed my slightly numb hands, grateful for the shared experience of waiting together. On this special day, I noticed children staying up late, accompanied by their parents for Hatsumode. It warmed my heart to see how Japanese culture continues to thrive in this tradition, even as deeper religious feelings seem to fade for some.

As we made our way to the shrine, a majestic camphor tree welcomed me, its trunk so immense that it would take several adults to encircle it. Standing before such a magnificent tree, I couldn't shake the awe that this living witness has stood here for over a thousand years, quietly observing the unfolding history of this place. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to become a part of that story, if only for a moment.

境内に入り、神殿に向かうまでは多くの人の列が出来ていました。白い息を吐きながら、少しかじかむ手を温めながら自分の順番を待ちました。この日は子供たちも遅くまで起きて初詣に一緒に親たちと来ていて、今でもまだ日本の文化が継承されている姿を見ることが出来ました。こういった宗教的な感覚は日本人にはなくなってきているのですが、初詣という文化はまだ残っているようです。神殿に近づくと大楠が迎え入れてくれます。その楠の幹は巨大で大人が４人から５人でを拡げてもそれでも幹の周りを囲うことが出来ないほど大きい幹です。１０００年以上も前からこの地に居て、今までの歴史を見てきたと感じるととても不思議な気がします。私のその歴史の１ページに入ることができた気がして、嬉しくもありました。

Upon arriving at the shrine and standing before the hall of worship, the experience begins with the heartfelt tradition of making an offering. Many visitors choose to toss in 5-yen coins, hoping for a little extra luck, but it’s important to remember that there’s no set amount required, and contributing is entirely optional.

Next, you can ring the bell, allowing its sound to resonate within you. This is followed by two deep bows (nirei), an act of respect and connection. As you bow, take a moment to really feel the intention behind it. After the bows, you'll clap your hands together twice (nihai) while facing forward, palms at your chest, embracing this moment of communion. Finally, a deep bow once more (ichirei) draws you closer to the spiritual presence of the gods.

After this meaningful sequence, a shrine maiden will graciously offer you sake. This year, it feels particularly special, especially after the pandemic kept many from participating in these cherished traditions. The pause in distributing sake (omiki) made many of us reflect on what these moments mean to us, which is why being able to enjoy this custom again feels like a blessing.

Following this, the drawing of omikuji—fortune slips—is a moment filled with hope for the coming year. Personally, I choose not to share what my omikuji says, as I believe it’s a personal message from the divine meant for my heart alone. Before leaving, I tie it to a tree on the shrine grounds, symbolizing my trust and intentions for the year ahead.

  神殿しすすみ、そして、拝殿前まに着くとまずは賽銭箱に自分の気持ちの金額を投げ込みます。縁がありますようにと、５円玉を投げる人が多いと聞きますが、金額は決まっておらず、別に賽銭を投げ入れる必要もありません。そして、鈴を鳴らします。その後に、最初に2度深く礼（二礼）、前を向き胸の前で両手の平を合わせた位置から2度柏手を打つ（二拍手）します。そして、最後にもう一度深く礼（一礼）し、神との対話をします。一連の流れの後、神社の巫女からお神酒を頂きます。コロナ禍の中ではこういった初詣も来る人が少なかったり、お神酒を配る風習もなくなっていたと聞いています。しかし、今年は再開していて、とても良い経験になりました。その後はおみくじを引いて今年の運勢を祈ります。おみくじの内容は他の人に言い聞かせることはせず、これは神からのメッセージと思い、心にとめてそれを境内の木に縛り付けて帰ります。  

I am pleased to have begun this year on a positive note by participating in Hatsumode at a local shrine. It has been approximately ten years since I engaged in this tradition in such a meaningful way, and it was an enriching opportunity to reconnect with Japanese culture.

To be frank, I had forgotten some of the ceremonial practices associated with misogi (the purification ceremony), including the washing of hands and mouth upon entering the shrine grounds, as well as the proper way to bow after ringing the shrine bell. Observing the behaviors of those around me was helpful in refreshing my memory. LOL!!

As I concluded my conversations with the deities, I departed from the shrine grounds, passing through the torii gate once again and re-entering the human world. Upon exiting, I bowed in acknowledgement and expressed my gratitude to the deities. The presence of kadomatsu (traditional Japanese pine decorations) on either side of the torii gate beautifully welcomed the deities during this occasion.

This experience marked a significant reconnection with important aspects of Japanese culture, and I found it to be genuinely rewarding. I sincerely wish for this year to be filled with further blessings and positive experiences.

今年は初詣をこうして地元の神社で行うことが出来て、とても良いスタートを切ることが出来たと思っています。このように初詣を行うのも、１０年ぶりぐらいでしょうか。本当に久しぶりにこうして、日本の文化を体験しました。正直言うと、境内に入った後に手や口を注ぐ、禊の方法や、神殿で鈴を鳴らした後の拝礼の方法などはすっかり忘れていて、周りの人を見ながら行いました。一連の神との対話が終わった後は境内に別れを告げ、鳥居を又くぐって人の世界に戻ります。そして、鳥居をくぐった後はまた一礼し、神に別れを告げます。初詣は鳥居の両脇に門松が飾られており、神を鳥居から迎え入れていました。本当に久しぶりに経験した日本の文化ですが、実際にやってみると本当にいい経験になりました。今年も良い一年になることを心より祈ります。

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