Architecture Moments™: Asia’s Birthplace of Christianity

Standing between the Basilica Minore del Santo Niño and the Cebu City Hall is an extraordinary architectural relic that’s not only a heritage landmark of culture and history, but also a legendary icon of everlasting faith. Welcome to Magellan’s Cross!

The Sacred Fruit of Spanish Colonialism

If you’re visiting Cebu City, the oldest metropolis in the Philippines, you’ll hear this fundamental narrative from various tour hosts, guides, and hospitable locals who share it all over and over again.

They would all point to Ferdinand Magellan and his international expedition, the primary explorers responsible for planting the seed of Christianity (specifically Roman Catholicism) in this Southeast Asian soil. Being the world-famous globetrotter that he was, leaving a tremendous heritage of religious importance in the Philippines was one of his greatest achievements. Although killed in battle on the island of Mactan by Lapu-Lapu, one of Cebu’s local chieftains, he nevertheless left a priceless religion practiced by most Filipinos up to this day.

As much as Christianity played a crucial role in Philippine progress and development over several generations, the Spaniards who previously colonized the country for more than 3 centuries, also left behind their distinctive style of architecture.

Let’s dive deeper into the design intricacies and architectural details of Magellan’s Cross.

A Humble Site of Spanish Architecture

You won’t miss this historical landmark if you happen to pass by the historic district of Cebu City.

Strategically situated right next to Plaza Sugbo (Sugbo is a Cebuano word and is the vernacular translation for Cebu), and between the country’s oldest church of Santo Niño and the city’s main administrative building, it easily captures your attention. Because it’s surrounded by more modern edifices, its Spanish-inspired facade is immediately recognizable. Because I’ve experienced this historical landmark up close and personal countless times, it wasn't difficult to study its outstanding characteristics - they were obvious. It’s like turning back the clock to a nostalgic period of antiquity when people practiced simple living and society wasn't that sophisticated yet.

Here are few distinguishable architectural features of the Spanish character of Magellan’s Cross:

Stone-cladded Interior and Exterior Walls. Constructed of corals, these fortified structures enclosed the legendary cross at the middle of its inner sanctum.

Red Roofing Clay Tiles. These terracotta-themed materials are suitable for Mediterranean and tropical climates, shielding occupants and valuable objects from harmful elements of the weather.

Semi-circular Arches and Doorways. These prominent profiles were usually exhibited in a series and almost always existed in Spanish architecture as one of their well-known design signatures.

From a distance, I thought the emblematic pavilion of Magellan’s Cross was physically small. However, as I stood in front of one of its entrance doorways, I was immediately dwarfed by its massive height. It was probably over 5 meters (16.4 feet). Each doorway/arch also had wrought iron gates which were painted in black and crafted in an ornamental manner. They matched the openings perfectly to allow the outside breeze to flow smoothly and naturally cool and ventilate the interior space.

On its topmost portion was a huge metal plaque where its origin story was embossed. I had to zoom-in my camera lens so you can read its valuable text.

By the way, have you noticed the tiny wind vane perched at the peak of its sloping roof? Shouldn’t its size be larger to be more visible to the public?

As soon as I entered this respected pavilion, I felt a sudden surge of spiritual enlightenment. Although it wasn’t a typical church, this holy chamber absolutely deserved all the compulsory veneration it can get from incoming guests regardless of their religious belief, tradition, or nationality. Don’t you think?

Against a white background, the ceiling overhead was vividly adorned by an exquisite mural, describing Rajah Humabon’s (an important leader during Spanish colonial times) baptism together with the historic positioning of the cross. I overheard this story from the tour guide nearby.

In fact, I was also fortunate that not too many people were present during my particular visit. This gave me ample time to fully investigate its interesting interior and move around freely in its limited space without too much human traffic.

At the center of the enclosed sanctuary was a marble pedestal holding the original cross erected by Ferdinand Magellan himself. Yet, it was completely wrapped in tindalo wood to prevent the faithful from touching it due to rumored miraculous interventions. That was according to one elderly woman who prayed and sold candles inside. Isn’t that an interesting tale?

The central pedestal also doubled as a holy altar where worshippers can offer their personal prayers, petitions, and symbolic candles.

The entire interior had an octagonal layout as mirrored from its outdoor plan. I believe the overall configuration composed of eight equal beige-colored walls was the perfect dimension for such an iconic monument. Speaking of optical illusions, the decision to incorporate a brightly lit interior theme actually made the enclosed space much bigger than visualized. Are there other architectural details that might have aroused your curiosity?

As I proceeded outside, I couldn't help but linger and admire the surrounding environment with the refreshing scents,sights, and sounds of nature, including the neighboring buildings that complemented the entire scenery.

I stood for a while under the cool shade of the trees while observing the ongoing activities that made Magellan’s Cross such a strategic location for pilgrims, tourists, and locals alike. With a big smile on my face, I was also grateful that the overall environment thriving around this historic landmark was definitely spotless, well-maintained, and protected by security personnel - a sure testament to the relentless efforts of the Cebuanos in upholding their cultural, historical, and religious roots.

A Timeless Monument of Religious Significance

Each year, the month of January commemorates the historic anniversary of the Christianization of the Philippines.

And this is especially relevant when Cebu City celebrates the Sinulog Festival (considered as the mother of all Philippine festivities), an annual religious jubilee that offers tribute to the Holy Child, the Señor Santo Niño.

Magellan’s Cross truly plays a strategic duty in the long history of Philippine religion. And despite its modest origins and simple architecture, its ancient structure conceals the compelling stories of resilience, empowerment, optimism, and gratitude. It’s up to us to marvel in their incredible heritage.

What are your personal opinions about Magellan’s Cross? Does its historic Spanish architecture interest you? Would you drop by this religious icon when you’re in Cebu?

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Architecture is basically a container of something. I hope they will enjoy not so much the teacup, but the tea.

YOSHIO TANIGUCHI

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