I’ve amassed a small, prized collection of Dutch ovens over years of experience in professional kitchens and as a daily home cook for my family of four, and each one serves a special purpose, from baking no-knead bread to cooking up black-eyed peas on New Year’s Day to braising a proper coq au vin. I put these cooking vessels to the test over months, sometimes decades, of regular use; these are the ones that stood up to every challenge.