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What Are Sugar Plums? A Deep Dive into Their History and Making

Around the festive season, terms like "sugar plums" often float through the air, igniting curiosity and nostalgia. Phrases such as "visions of sugar plums dancing in children's heads" and the "Sugar Plum Fairy" from The Nutcracker conjure images of delightful confections. But what exactly is a sugar plum? Surprisingly, they have little to do with actual plums. To uncover their mystery, one culinary enthusiast spent an entire weekend attempting a Victorian recipe for cherry sugar plums, revealing a journey through history and the intricate process of candy-making.

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In search of the true essence of sugar plums, the host found that online recipes primarily included mashed plums, nuts, and fruits coated in sugar – which, while delicious, do not fit the historical portrayal of sugar plums. In truth, the term refers to confections layered continuously with sugar, often featuring an inner core of spices, seeds, or nuts, rather than plums themselves.

A Historical Exploration

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The fascination with sugar plums dates back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but definitive recipes have remained scarce. This is due in part to professional confectioners guarding their secrets and the general impracticality of making such sweets at home. Yet one vintage cookbook, The Art of Confectionery from 1865, provided several recipes, revealing varieties like cinnamon, liqueur, and mint sugar plums.

Among these, the host decided to focus on a simpler recipe for cherry sugar plums instead of the more complex ones that would take months to prepare. The process, however, still involved laborious steps.

The Making of Cherry Sugar Plums

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The first step was to dry preserved cherries in the oven, a process which involved rinsing and spreading them out evenly before subjecting them to low heat for three hours. After their initial drying, the dried cherries were coated in confectioner's sugar. This was followed by a unique layer of gum arabic that acted as a binding agent between the cherries and later sugar coatings. Utilizing a KitchenAid mixer equipped with a panning attachment, the host began an elaborate layering procedure.

Every layer required careful attention, including a sugary syrup that needed to reach specific temperatures before being poured over the cherries. The drying process could take time, prompting improvisational strategies such as using a hairdryer to hasten the drying between layers.

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The Colorful Finishing Touches

The following day involved adding color to the sugar plums. A sugary mixture was heated to the desired temperature before being used to coat the cherries in various hues. This process emphasized the candy's festive appearances, reminding one of their aesthetic appeal during holiday festivities.

Interestingly, the term "sugar plums" may have emerged in literary works as early as the 1600s, serving as a metaphor for sweet talk or deception rather than specifically referring to a confection. Over time, they evolved to describe various candy-covered seeds or spices and were often used in theatrical contexts, including works that predate modern tales of Santa Claus.

From Confections to Cures

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By the 1700s, sugar plums took on a dual identity in society, not just as confections but also as elements of folk medicine. "Worm purging sugar plums" advertised as sweet alternatives to standard medicine for children, illustrated the intertwining of culinary delights and household remedies in historical health practices.

Moreover, these sweets have been depicted in various literary contexts, solidifying their cultural significance. Notably, in The Nutcracker, the mention of sugar plums connects them to holiday traditions, reinforcing their place in Christmas lore.

Modern Sugar Plums

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After an extensive multi-day process, the cherry sugar plums were finally complete, presenting an eye-catching yet somewhat rough exterior, unlike the smooth candies available today due to modern polishing techniques. A taste test revealed that while the sugar plums had pleasant flavors, they were predominantly sugary, overshadowing the cherry’s more subtle notes.

In reflection, the host humorously noted the arduousness of crafting traditional sugar plums, hinting that modern alternatives are not only easier to prepare but more accessible. Indeed, the pursuit of sugar plums illustrates a bridge across time and culinary traditions, evolving alongside the celebration of Christmas.

Conclusion

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Sugar plums encompass more than a sweet treat; they encapsulate the intertwining of history, culture, and culinary arts. Their journey from Victorian kitchens to modern holiday celebrations speaks volumes about our ongoing relationship with food. While they may no longer resemble their historical counterparts, sugar plums have solidified their place in Christmas traditions, reminding us of the enchanting tales and flavors tied to the season.