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Exploring Culinary History: A Special Q&A Featuring Food Historian Ken Albala

In a unique episode of Tasting History, host Max Miller welcomes esteemed food historian Ken Albala for an engaging Q&A. Together, they explore culinary history through a delightful 17th-century dish: chicken cooked with cherries. This recipe is sourced from an anonymous manuscript discovered at the Folger Library in Washington, D.C., likely penned by a woman for her family.

A Historical Recipe

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The dish, "To boil chickens with cherries," serves as a lens to view past culinary practices. It combines a strong broth with herbs like marjoram, parsley, and thyme, along with components such as white wine, sugar, and rose water. This intriguing blend of ingredients reflects the period's tastes and methods. Miller gives an insightful explanation of lesser-known terms such as "pipkin," a small earthenware pot, and "sippet," a small piece of bread used to soak up the dish's flavorful liquids.

Miller shares that those without a pipkin could adapt and use any pot for their cooking, highlighting the flexibility of historical recipes. He proceeds to outline the ingredients needed: a Cornish game hen, herbs, broth, wine, sugar, and fresh cherries.

Q&A Session with Ken Albala

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Once the chicken is baking, the pair delves into questions from their audience. They touch on a variety of topics related to historical food practices, including the origins of aspic, the myth surrounding Marco Polo and pasta, and how the Muslim conquests enriched European diets with new flavors and ingredients.

The Absorption and Evolution of Culinary Techniques

Albala asserts that the concept of aspic has ancient roots, likely arising from people unintentionally creating gelatinous dishes while boiling bones. He interjects humor, saying the term "unintentional aspic" could serve as the title for his future band, demonstrating the lightheartedness that accompanies his expertise.

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The discussion reveals how misconceptions about food, such as the belief that Marco Polo introduced pasta to Italy, are often simply narratives crafted for promotional purposes rather than historical facts. Albala adds that European dietary habits bore heavy influence from the Middle Eastern culinary traditions introduced during the Muslim conquests, which included fruits, spices, and agricultural methods.

Culinary Transformations

As the Q&A progresses, they address several historical dishes, including "blanche," a chicken pudding that has evolved over time. Albala provides context about how certain ingredients became established in various cuisines and how elite culinary practices trickled down through societal layers, altering perceptions and consumption trends.

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Responding to inquiries about the lengthy research process for his books, Albala conveys the complexity of cross-referencing historical sources, particularly in diverse languages. He offers listeners an insight into the arduous path that scholars navigate to uncover culinary history, explaining that the blending of diet, culture, and health beliefs has echoed through the ages.

The Modern Culinary Landscape

The conversation inevitably turns to contemporary food habits and the evolving status of chefs. Albala describes how chefs transitioned from being considered mere cooks to respected professionals, largely due to the influence of printed media in the 16th century. He notes their struggles for recognition as artists, reminiscent of painters and other creative professions.

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Additionally, they discuss how the availability of food and perception of certain ingredients alters scale and trend in culinary preferences, exemplified by the fluctuating status of white versus whole wheat bread through history.

The Restorative Nature of Historical Recipes

As the discussion winds down, the chicken and cherries dish is finally ready. They carefully extract the chicken and prepare the accompanying sauce with the cooking broth and cherries. To serve, they spoon the rich concoction over toasted bread sippets, embodying the hands-on nature of historical dining.

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Miller emphasizes the deliciousness of the dish and the importance of exploring these ancient recipes, noting that it is feasible and worth the effort to recreate such items even today. With each delightful bite, they navigate the past while appreciating how much has changed in the realms of culinary art.

Conclusion

This special Q&A session highlights the intricate relationship between history, culture, and food, as illustrated by both Ken Albala's insights and the glorious 17th-century chicken and cherries dish. Audiences glean both knowledge and inspiration, encouraging a deeper exploration of culinary traditions. As they conclude, the pair leaves viewers with a craving for not just tasty food but historical context—a reminder that every recipe tells a story waiting to be discovered.