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Part 1/9:

The Timeless Delight of Cheesecake: From Ancient Rome to Modern Variants

Cheesecake is a beloved dessert that has transcended time and geography, with numerous styles that delight our palates—whether it’s the rich, creamy New York-style cheesecake, the decadent burnt Basque cheesecake, or the delicate soufflé cheesecake from Japan. Each variant has its unique charm and appeal, but how do they compare to the original cheesecake known as savillum, which boasts a history of over 2,000 years?

The Historical Context of Savillum

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Savillum, an ancient Roman cheesecake, is mentioned in De Agri Cultura (On the Subject of Agriculture) by Marcus Porcius Cato—infamously known as Cato the Elder. A figure of gravitas, Cato was among the first prominent Roman writers, and frankly not the kind of man we would expect to indulge in dessert. However, in his agricultural treatise, he includes a section dedicated to cakes, presenting an unexpected facet of Roman culinary culture.

Cato describes three distinct recipes for cheesecake, reminiscent of the fairy tale of the Three Bears: one is straightforward, but a bit too simple; another is overly complex; and the third—savillum—strikes a perfect balance.

Exploring Cato's Cheesecake Recipes

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  1. Libum: The simplest of the three, Libum consists mainly of cheese and flour molded into a cake-like shape. While resembling a cake, it lacks the sweetness expected of a dessert, often serving more as a savory option, used in religious offerings.

  2. Placenta: The name may raise eyebrows, but this complex recipe is multi-layered and flavorful, involving cheese and honey. Despite its taste, the extensive work involved in preparing it may not justify the final product when compared to other offerings.

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  1. Savillum: The ideal recipe, according to the author, entails mixing a measured amount of cheese, flour, honey, and an egg and baking it to achieve a delicate dessert. Cato provides a comprehensive method, calling for specific quantities that reflect the weight standards of Roman times, which differ from modern measurements.

Modernizing the Ancient Recipe

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To adapt Cato's recipe for today’s kitchen, careful attention is given to converting ancient measurements. A pound in Cato's era weighed significantly less than today's pound, leading to an updated need for about 1 and 1/4 cups of whole wheat or barley flour, around 3 and 1/3 cups of cheese (Cato’s cheese of choice remains unspecified), one egg, and honey to taste. The recipe also necessitates poppy seeds—a common dessert ingredient in ancient Rome, toasted for optimal flavor.

The Simple Preparation Process

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Preparing this ancient cheesecake is surprisingly uncomplicated, featuring minimal ingredients. The procedure includes mixing the cheese and flour, incorporating the egg, and adding honey as the primary sweetener. Unlike today’s sugar, Romans often utilized honey, grape must, dates, figs, and fruit as their sweetening agents—further emphasizing the simplicity yet uniqueness of ancient Roman cuisine.

After mixing, the batter is placed in an oiled dish covered by a lid or a similar container (like a tagine or casserole dish) before being baked at a controlled temperature until thoroughly cooked. The final touch is a drizzle of honey and a sprinkle of poppy seeds, lending an exquisite finish to the cake.

The Culinary Context of Ancient Roman Meals

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The meal context in ancient Rome was multifaceted, consisting of prima mensa (first table) and secunda mensa (second table). While the primary courses might feature porridge or stews for common folk, the affluent would enjoy elaborate feasts adorned with exotic meats and elaborate presentations. The savillum, presented in its baking dish and served with a spoon, is more closely aligned with the final course meant to end the meal.

Cato's cheesecake stood apart in these culinary traditions. It was intended for ceremonial offerings or perhaps to close a feast with a lighter yet delightful sweet after a night of revelry.

A Taste of History

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Upon sampling savillum, it proves to be dense yet flavorful, featuring a honeyed sweetness distinct from modern cheesecakes. Although it may not take precedence over popular styles ingrained in contemporary dessert culture, its historical significance and simplicity create an undeniable connection to the past. Even as the world of desserts continues to evolve, the essence of cheesecake remains, echoing through the ages.

Conclusion: The Legacy of Cheesecake

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As we journey through history, savillum stands as a testament to the enduring nature of culinary traditions. Even as variations continue to emerge today, this ancient cheesecake serves as an important link to our past—a reminder of how a simple dish can unite cultures and epochs. So, whether indulging in a contemporary cheesecake or one of its ancient predecessors, we celebrate a dessert that has truly stood the test of time.