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The Controversial History of Chicago Deep Dish Pizza

Chicago-style deep dish pizza has sparked fervent debates among food enthusiasts and locals alike, often described as one of the most divisive dishes in American cuisine. Amid jokes and criticisms—including John Stewart's famous declaration that it’s merely a "casserole"—the quest to determine the best deep dish pizzeria in Chicago has become an ongoing saga. Recently, Tasting History's host decided to dive into the fascinating and tangential history of deep dish pizza by recreating one of the earliest recipes from the 1940s.

A New Kitchen and New Beginnings

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After a six-week hiatus, the host returned to his kitchen, excited by its user-friendly layout despite the bittersweet farewell to a beloved gas oven. With a newly christened oven, the host chose to celebrate by making a pizza—a deep dish pizza, to be precise. For his experiment, he decided to look back at the deep dish's historical roots, spurred on by a recipe from the original Pizzeria Uno, the birthplace of the dish that opened in 1943.

Despite his past allegiance to traditional pizza crusts—the kind common around childhood establishments—last year's trip to Chicago had introduced him to the very depths of deep dish pizza.

Origins: Pizzeria Uno and Its Recipe

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The establishment of Pizzeria Uno in Chicago was not a simple tale. According to lore, Ike Sewell opened the pizzeria with Rick Ricardo, his partner from Texas who had fallen ill after attempting to enjoy Mexican cuisine. Allegedly, this prompted Rick to travel to Italy to learn about authentic pizza. During this time, Sewell sought to offer a "heartier" pizza, culminating in what we now cherish as deep dish pizza. However, many aspects of this origin story are disputed, particularly in light of more robust historical research.

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Peter Regas, a food historian, noted that the established narrative may have some inconsistencies; records showed that Rick's trip to Italy coincided with WWII's peak, making this alleged culinary pilgrimage dubious at best. Adding to the complexity of the story, it’s suspected that Pizzeria Uno may have already been operating as a pizza venue long before its official branding.

The Recipe: A Blend of Time

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In preparing the deep dish pizza, the host aimed to blend insights from two recipes—one from 1945 and the other from 1947. The original recipe lacked the substantial depth and richness associated with modern deep dish. Furthermore, without sufficient sauce, they resembled standard thin-crust pizzas. The key ingredients included milk, yeast, flour, and various toppings, emphasizing how this concoction differed vastly from what diners expect today.

Interestingly, the late 1940s recipe reversed the assembly process, indicating that cheese should go on the bottom, while tomato sauce topped it. This adjustment signified a pivotal evolution from traditional pizza-making to what we recognize as deep dish pizza.

The Evolution of Deep Dish Pizza

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As the discussion transitioned into the pizza's evolution within Chicago's culinary landscape, the host highlighted the changes surrounding deep dish pizza in the decades that followed. Prominent establishments, like Giordano's, gained fame for crafting the stuffed deep dish pizza, introducing more layers and flavors, while Pequod's offered a unique caramelized cheese crust.

The 1960s and 70s marked the height of deep dish pizza experimentation, with chefs developing thicker crusts that could hold even greater quantities of sauce and cheese. However, controversy continued to brew among Chicagoans, who remain deeply divided over which pizzeria serves the best deep dish pizza.

Serving and Tasting: A Fork-and-Knife Affair

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Upon baking, the deep dish pizza produced by the host showcased beautiful melted cheese and a rich flavor profile. The crust remained hearty and reminded one of bread rather than the traditional deep dish styles that are often criticized for being excessively heavy. Unlike modern iterations, which often drown the cheese in sauce, this pizza maintained a more balanced ratio of cheese to sauce, enhancing the overall taste experience.

As he savored the first bite, the host noted that the pizza remains halfway between a hearty deep dish and a more classic New York style, making it a delightful variation on the heavyweights of pizza.

Conclusion: A Legacy of Flavorful Conflict

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The journey through the history of Chicago deep dish pizza unveils intricate layers of culinary culture and community debate. Despite the controversies surrounding its origins and the owners of various pizzerias, deep dish pizza has become a foundational element of Chicago's identity. It’s a dish that sparks passion, nostalgia, and laughter—proof that food isn't just about flavor; it's about the stories we share and the histories we taste.

Amid the turmoil of deep dish supremacy debates, one thing remains clear: pizza, whether deep or shallow, evokes fond memories and satisfying experiences, inviting all to partake in its delicious legacy.