El Escorial and the Valley of the Fallen - What I Saw, Felt and Thought

While exploring Toledo, the former capital of Spain, our guide told us about King Philip II. This king had wanted to move the capital from Toledo to Getafe. However, cartographers made a mistake and ended up in a forgotten village called Mayrit (the future Madrid). The king a mountain lover, was unhappy with this and decided to move north. This gave rise to a place on the map called El Escorial and the monastery of the same name.

We visited this monastery to delve into what life was like in the Middle Ages, what they did and what it meant to live in a monastery as a Habsburg king. You can reach El Escorial from Madrid by suburban train or as we did, by car. The journey takes about an hour. Along the way, it’s worth stopping at an important site from modern Spanish history, the Valley of the Fallen. This monument complex was constructed in 1940 by dictator Francisco Franco to symbolize the end of the civil war and reconciliation between the opposing sides. It is the burial site for 33.700 soldiers and Franco himself was interred here in 1975 per his will, though his remains were later moved elsewhere.

One of the most striking features of the valley is the massive cross. It represents memory, reconciliation and Christianity while also symbolizing the many Christians buried here. The architecture reflects a classic Spanish style, with structures made of gray stone reminiscent of Madrid's Almudena Cathedral. The construction took 18 years and was an ambitious, costly project.

As we approached this site I began to feel small. The Christian symbols and elements of Spanish history contained within this immense structure were overwhelming. However, the monument also serves as a stark reminder of the painful chapters in Spanish history.

The mourning statues here are particularly moving. Their colossal size leaves a deep psychological impact, marking this place as one of lamentation.

Upon entering we felt a chill run through us. Though inside a mountain, everything we saw was man-made. It’s astonishing that we, as humans, can create such remarkable beauty while embedding it with such haunting meanings. A commemorative plaque marking the site's opening on April 1 1959, caught our attention. The construction had begun 18 years earlier.

I’ve visited many churches in Spain, but nowhere else have I felt such profound respect and my own insignificance as I did here. My friend Sofia agreed with me. We understand why churches are often so dark and grand. So that people feel small in the face of God and the heavens. While this place is not a church, it evokes precisely that feeling. It’s both terrifying and fascinating.

What stood out was not just that we were entering a church or a burial site but that we were stepping into a mountain itself. All these structures were carved by human hands into the rock of a real mountain. The human intervention in nature, combined with historical artifacts and tapestries, makes this place an attraction. Fortunately, it’s not overcrowded with tourists, which makes it even more special.

And music concerts are held here, with both children's and adult choirs performing. This combination brings together the infinity of nature, the artistic works created by human hands and historical context. There weren’t many people inside, which is both an advantage and an indication that this place is a less popular tourist destination. On the day we visited, the outside was stifling due to the hot weather, but inside there was a cool atmosphere. I would recommend wearing light clothing when coming here.

Catholic music concerts are organized here and we saw advertisements for music performed by the monks of the monastery. It was specifically mentioned that male children's choirs perform here. These concerts must be mesmerizing and impressive. Of course, it is forbidden to record people during worship. But this does not impede experiencing the spiritual and cultural value of the place.

One of the things that struck us the most was seeing young families hurriedly rushing to the morning mass. It was surprising how much interest families showed in this place. Younger people participated much more than the elderly.

Afterwards we headed to El Escorial. This complex built after the visit of King Philip II in 1561, was designed by this Catholic king and consists of a magnificent monastery, basilica and palace. More than a million tons of granite were used in the construction of El Escorial. The first residents were monks tasked with praying for the royal family and safeguarding the saints holy relics. The story of Saint Lawrence’s martyrdom inspired the design of the structure. The reason El Escorial is dedicated to Saint Lawrence is that he was martyred by being burned on a grill and the monastery is designed in the shape of a grill.

El Escorial is an enchanting structure both inside and out. The courtyards, holy relics and artworks inside have a profound impact on visitors.

As for the Franco era these buildings have been preserved. Spain is an exemplary country in preserving its history and heritage. El Escorial is an authentic 15th-century structure that has been maintained and restored to the present day.

Famous artists like El Greco have their works displayed here and King Philip II personally selected these artworks. Today, many tourists visit El Escorial to see this unique structure.

King Philip II’s private library is also located here. After the Vatican it is one of the most important historical libraries in the world, famous for storing books with their spines facing inward.

However, the most interesting, eerie and exotic part of the monastery is the section with the tombs of the kings and their close relatives.

We descended into the sacred area of El Escorial, the royal tombs. The remains of Spanish kings and queens are preserved here, either mummified or kept in an appropriately preserved state. The tombstones are quite impressive, adorned with coats of arms and names.

Such a place offers more than just a frightening experience. It provides a fascinating one. Imagine that, when no one is around, the people in the tombs come to life and walk around the palace, conversing with each other. It’s a unique place to wander through at night.

One of the tombs is marked with a lion figure. The lion seems to serve as a protector, symbolizing the monarchy. We then moved on to rooms where the remains of the Habsburg and Bourbon dynasties are kept. However, photography is prohibited here. An interesting fact is that all the tombs in this room are occupied, meaning there may be serious issues finding space for the current royal family in the future.

We left behind the dark atmosphere, the black attire and the somber style of the Habsburgs and moved to the rooms of the French Bourbon dynasty. This section exudes a rich atmosphere of gold, chandeliers, tapestries, clocks and luxury. Unlike the Habsburgs, this section feels warm and inviting. The tapestries add warmth to the room. And the use of mirrors began with the Bourbons, which led me to wonder how the Habsburgs maintained their beauty without mirrors.

I was deeply moved and highly recommend visiting El Escorial. Thanks and I hope to see you soon.