And we are back on Sado, the island of the exiled. Well, the banishments happened some centuries ago, but Sado lives from this reputation and from this times until today.
As written before, in earlier times, politicians, intellectuals and even emperors who had fallen out of favor were banished to Sado, but for the island itself this really payed off in terms of cultural aspects. Various temple complexes and also the spread of Noh(theater) culture are still visible signs of this cultural influence, which was brought here to the island especially from Kyoto.
But apart from temples, Noh stages and other remnants of bygone times, Sado is blessed with a wonderful natural scenery. On the island which is shaped like an S, there are two mountain ranges stretching in the north and south, with a lowland in between, where most of the islanders live. And since Sado as an island is inevitably surrounded by water, there is pure coastal landscape, mostly rather rocky but often spectacular. A paradise for hikers and divers, and for all those who are looking for a break from the stressful hustle and bustle of Japanese cities.
Today the island is touristically developed and easily accessible even by car. The car ferry takes only two and a half hours from Niigata city and you can continue your journey without having to rely on the rather sparse bus system, especially in the north of the island. Exploring Japan is much more fun with your own car anyway and you can explore corners of the country where even most Japanese don't go. They are mostly drawn to the well-known and unfortunately often overcrowded tourist destinations, where people have to push their way through. But something like that can't happen to you here on Sado, if there is something in abundance on that island, it's space. And clean spirits, green nature, blue sea and a lot of good mood.
And we were still in a great mood when we woke up well rested after an overnight stay and prepared for the new day. Because we still wanted to see a little more of the island, and were planning for a tour around the northern part of the island. Always along the sea, until we would arrive later at the ferry port again.
And we wanted to look around as much as possible, and check what was there to encounter on this trip. Quite casually and without a real goal, as it is often the way to go.
But let's have a look together, and see what we have discovered...
We spent our night in a rather old and a bit rustic hut, but you don't need much to sleep well in Japan. As long as there are tatami mats and futon mattresses, I won't complain. I'll just accept my fate and probably sleep very well.
We then set out to circumnavigate half the island and, as already written, decided on the northern part. Road-wise the island is quite well developed and we could drive almost the whole time along the coast, or at least very close to it. At several places there were parking lots, so we could stop and without any stress have a look at the whole spectacle. There weren't too many people on the road either, so for most of the time it was a rather smooth trip we never felt rushed or in a hurry.
And because of that, we were always able to take a few breaks and walk around along the water and climb on the rocks and simply enjoy the day. The water here is super clean and clear, which of course has an effect on the fishing. The sushi from Sado is particularly fresh and delicious and tastes even better than in the rest of the country. Although I can't say that I ever was served bad sushi anywhere in Japan.
We did get a little touristy and took a little ride on this glass bottom boat. From there we could not only have a look under water, but also see the coast from a completely different side.
The sky became a little cloudier and the wind stronger, which was especially noticeable from the waves in the water. But the boat trip went without any incidents, on the contrary we enjoyed this tour very much.
The small ferry harbor housed several of this excursion boats but in addition there was also an armada of fishing boats, which probably go out to the sea in almost any kind of wind and weather and try to make a big catch. Not only in the old days, also today this is not an easy and safe job, as the sea in these latitudes is often very unpredictable.
At various places along the coastal road you could discover stores like this one, which usually offered a wide selection of seafood and always attracted passing travelers.
In particular there was a big variety of squid, which for me was still rather unfamiliar at that time. Dried or almost raw, just the way you like it best. Also different kinds of mussels, shrimps and also octopus were looking for a happy and courageous customer.
We decided on grilled squid, which was freshly made and then immediately eaten by us. Sometimes you just have to try something new. This is also true for food and we didn't regret it at all.
We also walked around a bit, as the weather was still nice and the air mild and fresh and we just wanted to move. From some of the coastal hills we had a wonderful view over the winding road and the surrounding area.
It does look a little rugged here, but still very inviting - actually, it was beautiful. In places like this, I could linger forever and let my eyes wander. The sea and the mountains that stretch along the coast are just a perfect match, and the green and blue harmonize beautifully. And the little hiking trails that wind along the coast always attract me irresistibly.
Later on the weather became a bit changeable and we were not sure if it would rain. But even this view has its own charm, reflecting the life here on this former outpost of civilization. Always struggling with the forces of nature and away from the amenities that cities like Kyoto have to offer. It was always rougher but also much more real here and it still is today!
We continued and stopped a few times to enjoy the beautiful views. This hill is also called the Turtle Hill, and right in front of it there was a nice campground. Right on the water it seemed like a great place to camp.
We then went on again to climb over some rocks to get to a small cave right next to the water. In this cave, there were countless small statues, all related to Buddhist mythology. Several small altars almost turn this place into a temple, quite an impressive sight.
Most of the small statues represent small children and babies, and a larger statue of a mother with there offsprings was watching over everything. A little gloomy, yet sublime and setting, there was a very special mood down here at the base of the rocks here at the edge of the water that made me quite contemplative.
The sight was beautiful in its heaviness, however it showed me once again that we can't take everything in life for granted. Every moment is a gift that we should quietly share with everyone around us. And I am grateful for all the opportunities which have come my way and for all that is yet to come.
Gratefully and carefully we went back over the rocks to the car. Nothing is for ever, this becomes especially clear down here at the water's edge. But change and rotation doesn't have to be a bad thing, even if most of us are probably always a little afraid of it. After this little detour we continued our trip and I felt that I had perceived and experienced the world in front of me a little differently that day.
This little tour along the coast of Sado was just wonderful. Many very lasting impressions accompanied this trip and showed Japan from another side, away from the big and busy tourist centers. As I learned, there are about 3500 islands in Japan, of course most of them are not inhabited. On the smaller inhabited islands, people sometimes live their lives a little differently, more intensely and much more consciously. And it feels good to sometimes encounter this other life and to dive into it a little deeper. This does not always have to be on an island in Japan, often you can experience this in your own country as well and perhaps learn more about your own roots.
We continued our trip until we arrived back at the ferry port, where the ferry took us back to the mainland. I so,metimes can see the silhouette of Sado and always wish to return there again to discover and experience the island a bit more closely. Unfortunately this is also a time and budget problem, but maybe there will be another opportunity for us in the future.
And to everyone who should make it to Japan, I recommend to have a look off the beaten track. In the countryside and in the city there is so much more to discover, maybe less spectacular but much more real.
That was our little trip to Sado Island, but I'll be back soon with new pictures from the land of the rising sun. Have a great day everyone.
γΎγγ matane
[//]:# (!pinmapple 37.997158 lat 138.234738 long The wilder yet still so charming side of Sado Island d3scr)
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Awesome post! Reblogged and upvoted due to its awesomness and quality.
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Lovely island and yeah I bet the sushi is delish!
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