Walking along the Horseshoe alley in Chinese Talad Noi community, เดินเล่นตามตรอก

This is the third part of my walking expedition in Talad Noi (Small Market) which was one of the oldest settlements of Chinese immigrants during the Reign of King Rama I (just over 250 years ago.) These Chinese immigrants used to live along the river close to the Grand Palace. When King Rama I established Bangkok as the new capital city of his dynasty, the new Palace and city wall had to be constructed: a new city had to be developed so all the original Chinese encampments had to be moved further down the river. Talad Noi community composed of mainly Chinese immigrants who came from the northern parts of China. These were the Han Chinese descendants whose dialect was known as ‘Hakka’. Talad Noi (Small Market) is located to the south of Chinatown where a much bigger Chinese community with several big markets could be found to these days.

About five minutes’ walk from the oldest building of Siam Commercial Bank, passing all the street food stalls, and a big graffiti on the wall of a tall building; a small alley ‘Trok San Chao Rong Kueak’ stood out on your left. The meaning of this name is ‘Horseshoe Shrine Alley’, there is a very old Chinese shrine at the end of this alley.

The old house opposite the alley has turned itself into a new chic coffee shop on the ground floor. We just had a quick look as we had to manage our time.

Almost a hundred years ago, there were several ports along this side of the river. The ‘Hakka’ Chinese people worked on merchants’ Chinese junks; they have become very good at making iron anchors and repairing metal parts of the ships. They were also experts in making horseshoes. Hence people called the alley’s name according to the profession of the community.

During the last few years, local authority and community had come together in an effort to revive the old Chinese community and show case its cultural inheritance. Many old Chinese houses and shrines could be found along this alley. Those shophouses built during the Reign of King Rama V still remain unchanged over the last hundred and fifteen years. Luckily, these houses have not been transformed into riverside condominiums.

This is the famous ‘Mother Roaster’ coffee shop perching on the second floor of an old warehouse full of second-hand spare parts and metal gadgets.

Artists had been enlisted in the effort to make this place becoming a cultural and artistic tourist attraction. A permanent photo exhibition on local life and colourful graffiti could be seen as soon as you turn into this Horseshoe Shrine alley. Some local villagers had been encouraged to turn their old houses into chic coffee shop and fast food for taking home. These houses have become backdrop for fashion photography and tourists’ selfies.

Very dark passage up the stairs to get a taste of fresh brew or drip coffee.

Visitors often climbed up the pile of metal for selfies!

I found three flurry customers waiting patiently for their milky coffee.

Again we couldn’t afford the time for coffee or cakes; this walking tour was quite a tough job. A quick glimpse then we quietly left.

The old houses are still lived in by elderly ancestors and third or fourth generations of descendants. Walking along this narrow alley made me very nostalgic as I kept thinking about my Chinese grandmother who could only speak Chinese. She was looking after me from baby to about four years old; I used to listen to her horrible long boat journey from China to Siam when she was a teenager.

People had to struggle for fresh water from earthen jars; there was no queuing system. It was a crazy rush when the sailor allowed people their daily ration of food and fresh water. People just stepped on each other to get some drinking water; after she got her jug of water, my grandmother found out that her toe nail was missing! People never had enough food and water with very bad living condition; so weak passengers just passed away. These corpses were thrown overboard to keep diseases away from the ship.

Unfortunately it never occurred to me that my grandmother would leave me one day, I thought things were going to be the same all the time. So, I did not have the chance to learn more about her family background in China. One of my uncles told me that she’s the only daughter of the head of a village; this uncle used to be a soldier in the Ching dynasty during his young days. He did show me several long scars on his back caused by swords during an attack. I could feel there was a gap in my hereditary background. So, the old Chinese shrines and houses always remind me of my long lost Chinese roots. It would have been nice to have a family tree of my families. But this never occurred to me as significant while we were still young and care free.

โพสต์นี้เป็นตอนต่อจากการไปเดินเที่ยวแถวตลาดน้อย คราวก่อนเราเดินไปชมอาคารของธนาคารไทยพาณิชย์ ที่เก่าแก่ที่สุดในกรุงเทพ วันนี้เราจะพาเดินต่อจากที่นั่นเพื่อไปเที่ยวศาลเจ้าจีนที่ริมแม่น้ำเจ้าพระยา ที่มีอายุมากกว่าร้อยปีที่มีชื่อว่า ศาลเจ้าโรงเกือก เราก็เดินตรงจากธนาคารไทยพาณิชย์อีกสักห้านาที เดินผ่านร้านขายอาหารตามสั่ง และร้านขายขนมอีกหลายอย่าง เดินเลยภาพเขียนฝาผนังรูปใหญ่เท่าตึกสี่ชั้นไปอีก จนถึงซอยแคบๆทางซ้ายมือ จะมีป้ายเขียนว่า ตรอกศาลเจ้าโรงเกือก เราก็เดินไปตามตรอกนี้ เดินไปก็ชมภาพถ่ายตามกำแพง และหยุดถ่ายรูปภาพเขียนตามกำแพง ชุมชนตลาดน้อยได้รับการสนับสนุนให้มีการพัฒนาเป็นแหล่งท่องเที่ยวทางศิลปะวัฒนธรรม ที่นี่จึงกลายเป็นแหล่งท่องเที่ยวที่วัยรุ่นชอบมาถ่ายรูปสไตล์วินเทจ

The old Chinese shrine at the end of the alley with a nice view of the river.

เราเดินผ่านร้านกาแฟที่อยู่บนโกดังเก็บของเก่า ที่เป็นอะไหล่รถยนต์และเครื่องจักร ในอดีตคนจีนที่นี่มีความชำนาญในการตีเหล็กเพื่อทำสมอเรือ เพราะเคยมีท่าเรือหลายแห่งในบริเวณนี้ ชาวบ้านก็ทำอาชีพซ่อมเรือและเครื่องยนต์ที่มากับเรือของพ่อค้า และทำเกือกม้าขายด้วย คนจึงเรียกว่าตรอกศาลเจ้าโรงเกือกนั่นเอง ตามบ้านคนแถวนี้ก็จะมีเศษเหล็กและอะไหล่เครื่องจักรมากมาย เราแปลกใจมากที่เขาสามารถขนของหนักๆเข้ามาได้ตามทางแคบๆ พอเดินไปสุดทางก็เจอศาลเจ้าทางซ้ายมืออยู่ติดริมแม่น้ำ

This shrine is over 130 years old; it had been rebuilt by a group of Chinese merchants as the original shrine was too small and in need of serious renovation. The wooden carving was a combination of Chinese and European designs. There were previous translations of the old Chinese letters inside the shrine; the shrine’s Chinese god was invited from China in 1889. It was a shame that the old art work outside the shrine and wooden work have become rather tatter and in a bad condition. It has become very difficult to find people with the old skills for the restoration of old shrine and art work.

The river view from the old shrine.

Wishing you peace, good health and prosperity.

Stay warm and cheerful.