Many years ago when I started long range shooting I had to break a habit; I shifted focus to a less is more paradigm. Shooting at long range is about making each bullet count for something rather than sending a whole load of them knowing some would be ineffective. Hit probability percentage was important and everything I did revolved around putting an accurate round on the target the first time, every time.
There's many elements to long range shooting and I've touched on many loosely in my blogs over time. One is the ammunition itself which, due to the need to send rounds with first-time and repeatable accuracy, has to be made with precision, like the firearms that shoot them. Knowing how ammunition will work is critical to making the shot count and whilst many of the other factors cannot be controlled or predicted, the movement of a target and the environmental elements for instance, a round can be controlled.
I make my own ammunition despite not needing to.
Match Grade ammunition is available which is factory made ammunition that achieves consistency through improved manufacturing techniques, tighter tolerances and better components like powders that burn more consistently and primers that ignite more efficiently, among other things. It is expensive, but when it comes for free is a viable option I suppose. I've shot a lot of it and have had predictable and consistent results.
So why would I make my own?
The answer is simple, I want better results, a more tailored round and the ability to be a little more self sufficient.
I don't want to get technical here, but when I set up a rifle I match the ammunition it fires to it. This is called load development. It's a complex and time consuming process where different amounts and types of gun powder are tested along with other things like different primers, projectiles (the bullet that flies down range), neck tensions and seating depth. Depending on how each shoots an ideal load is found that matches the barrel harmonics and shoots accurately and repeatedly at the 100m test range.
I've simplified it above as it can get complicated.
Different projectiles like different things like twist rates, powders, primers and such but lets use the seating depth for instance.
This is the depth at which the projectile is seated within the case and it effects the jump to the lands of the barrel. The jump is the distance between the ogive of the bullet and the lands which is where the ogive engages the lands and begins to spin down the barrel. I have rifles that like a 0.20 of an inch jump or less and some don't care. It's important to get it right though as a minutely inaccurate rifle at 100m will miss by a mile at 1800m. It's all of the small things combined that matter.
It's really quite simple, but only when every element of the process, the science, comes together. Before then, it can seem very complicated.
Making one's own ammunition is generally called reloading as it reloads spent cases and turns them back into live rounds. You can see the components in the second image from the top and in the main image some live rounds and spent cases, some of which I have already de-primed.
In the image directly above you'll see a few of the tools required for the job, just a few mind, there's more.
Above image
Top left to right: Bullet puller, OAL length gauge, gun powder granules
Middle left to right: Powder trickler, primer pocket reamer, case neck chamfer tool
Bottom left to right: Seating die, die adjustment tool, vernier caliper
Below image
Top: Projectiles, primers and powder
Middle left to right: Seating press and die, case measuring, case weighing (done to batch brass.)
Bottom left to right: Case priming tool, cleaning wet tumbler, two finished rounds
Making ammunition is something I do a lot simply because I shoot a lot.
I make various rifle rounds and handgun ammunition as well like 9mm, 38 Super and others. It's a constant job as I don't like my ammunition stocks to dip below a certain level. It's for various reasons one of which is I like to be prepared and another is so that I can ride out the peaks and troughs that occur in component supply and pricing.
Reloading one's own ammunition is done for various reasons with precision and cost saving being my main ones.
Some shooters hate it, others love it (like me) and many don't know how to do it. The latter group are usually those who don't shoot much and aren't that serious. They buy factory ammunition and shoot a little here and there and are happy with it. For me though, I'd never be able to afford buying factory ammunition considering how much I shoot. Also, with the long range stuff I do, factory ammunition isn't suitable as I mention above.
So that's about it. I know not many on Hive know anything about guns, or care for that matter, but I like to represent firearms as more than simply shooting cans in the back yard or mass killings. There is a lot in the middle and a lot of very normal, respectable people who get involved with firearms. It's interesting...There are so few people in the offline world who know I have firearms or my history of shooting them and if/when they find out they are shocked saying they never would have figured me for a gun person. Funny huh?
Gun people could be your doctor, priest, school teacher, check-out operator, boss, the person you bully around and tease at work, local politician, the nice lady at the plant nursery, even the kid your kid plays with. I am so much more than a firearms owner and shooter and despite knowing a whole lot about guns and the elements around it being a firearms owner doesn't define me.
Ok, so that's really it now. If you have any questions or comments you know what to do below.
Design and create your ideal life, don't live it by default - Tomorrow isn't promised so be humble and kind
Any images in this post are my own
That's really surprising. I would have thought for long-distance shooting, the mechanical consistency of the ammunition would require a precision of a level unachievable by 'reloading', even with your fine arsenal of tools!
I guess you use the same rounds for practice and competition or am I 'wide of the mark'?
All ammunition is made the same way, in the same (essential) method, handloads or factory ammunition. Primer, powder, seat projectile.
Mass produced factory ammunition is imprecise as I said, there's a billion articles on the internet if you care to read them, and about the same in printed books as well.
I use the same ammunition for all applications, practice, competition or killing.
There are, on everything, but what I love about Hive is that you get the attention of the very person that writes them so the info comes from the experts themselves!
I was just interested in the mechanical distortion of a used casing and if this could effect the way the bullet flies or its initial velocity, or are any discrepancies equalised as it travels the length of the barrel?
I just find it absolutely incredibly, the fact you have the ability to a hit a target over a kilometre away, the number of factors that can affect trajectory over that kind of range blows my mind!
Remember in this post I mention batching brass, the cases? That's done as every time a round is fired the case expands which is why it is resized in the resizing die as part of the prep process of reloading.
It lengthens too, which means it needs trimming to within manufacturers tolerance of case length. So, brass is cut off the neck to do this.
Eventually the case becomes too unstable to use. They crack. When they are fired, if that happens, it goes very badly for the operator. That's why each case is meticulously checked once cleaned and thrown away if found to lack integrity.
I have my cases annealed (after firing) to return the metal to it's original metallurgical state of hardness/malleability etc. This extends the life. I get about 5-6 reloads from each case, roughly, then they are discarded.
I can hit a torso sized target at over a mile, (I never say the true extent of my range). I have done many posts on the process and what comes into play and as you say, there are many variables and many elements.
I hope this helps.
Thank you.
Yes, I read most of your posts as they are informative and well written. The science is fascinating.
Thanks again :-)
Ok, no worries.
There's a book by Bryan Litz called Applied Ballistics for Long Range Shooting. It will probably be very difficult to follow for a non long-range shooter but it could be interesting for you considering your interest in my firearms posts.
Good stuff man, it’s wild every time I see gunpowder granules what they actually look like! Lol.
I would like to get this type of setup one day if I can get the space and afford it. I think it’s good, albeit a fair amount of work, to do this type of stuff. Being able to manage your own things like this is important. Raw materials are important to get our hands on because those are often the best ways to beat the system designed to keep us away from tools like firearms.
Do you keep a book with notes on the different measurements that you need for the different guns you have on the ammo specs? For example the projectile depth in the casing you were talking about. Do you keep a log of what works best? Just curious.
With our eventual move coming up, my dads going to give me two of his rifles. Ones a .22 which I’m excited about so that I can do some pretty inexpensive shooting but the other one is an Yugoslavian SKS that he got, 7.69. I’m really hoping my dads not bullshitting me and will give it to me, would love to have something like that even if it’s probably inefficient at using.
Good questsh.
Yep, I have a book with all of the details for each load I make, powder weight, overall length, the load development results and so on. It's pretty extensive.
I also keep data on my shots: Time of day, temperature, humidity altitude (combined as Density Altitude), wind speed and direction, range, elevation and windage hold, point of impact and so on. It's called DOPE (data on previous engagement) and it is all collated and used to determine future shots.
For instance, cold bore shots. I record data in any and every situation (cold bore shots) so that if I am forced to make a cold bore shot without actually ballistic solveelr data I can reference the dope and have a clue on how the projectile will/may react.
It's all about trying to remove the doubt and uncertainty when making shots.
I hope that helps.
Powder is incredible really, the different types and uses. There's so many. It's headache-inducing.
I hope you manage to secure the SKS and .22 as you'll have some fun. Careful with that SKS though, it's a whole lot of gun. Shooting that .22 will be a good start to rifle shooting and, who knows, maybe you get a realoading set up also?
Yeah it helps for sure! I think I remember you saying about writing the shots down which is important for those reasons on lack of tech if you're in that scenario but it's also good to keep it for the ammo and other specs too. We have good memories but maybe not that good lol.
I've always liked rifle shooting, I just didn't get to do it much since it required a bit more space to do so. Handgun is less space requisite so ive done that more.
Yeah I'm sure the SKS is a lot to use! If it's anything like the AR-15 my dad has it's going to be something to handle that's for sure. One thing he mentioned was the ammo was cheaper than others because it's military surplus stuff so it's easy to find. He gave me a website that he gets ammo from and it wasn't bad at all. Box of 500 was 175$ I think or something close to that. As much as I'm looking forward to having and using it, I'm really excited for the .22 so I can do some good practice without breaking the bank!
There's probably so much 7.62×39mm kicking about that it'll never run out! That box of 500 seems cheap enough, far cheaper than the rounds I make which are about $1.80AUD each to make. ($1.29 US). It's hard to quantify it though as I re-use cases and they last for different periods of time. 500 7.62's for that price is great. You'll have a lot of fun.
Can I ask how one bolts a rifle safe on a wooden wall and will it pass muster when inspected?
This is a good question.
In my State here in Australia a rifle (any firearm) must be stored in an appropriate safe and there are regulations around which safe is required for the different types of firearms. A shotgun or rifle typically has a lesser requirement than a handgun for instance.
Because I have rifles, shotguns and hand guns I have multiple safes to store them, all meeting the legal requirements of course. This also includes security systems for the area in which the safes are stored which becomes a requirement when over a certain number of firearms are owned. (I never disclose how many I have so can't comment on the level of security I'm required to have. This link may help you understand a little better if you have the time though.
https://www.police.sa.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0005/505490/Firearms-Security-Storage-Quick-Guide-A3.pdf
As for bolting (affixing) them to the wall...This is not generally a legal way for an operational firearm to be stored and whilst permission could be sought from Firearms Branch, it is usually denied as there is no good reason for it.
A decommissioned/inoperable firearm may be kept in such condition, again, there's regulations around that which can be quite complicated.
The laws around firearms differ from State to State in Australia, and certainly around the world, so I'd not be willing to comment about what may be possible outside of my home State. I do not have any non-operational firearms and so that area of law is outside of my knowledge other than that above.
I hope this helps.
Cheers thank you for the information.
I will have to keep reading.
Again thank you.
Wow. This is new to me. You make your own? Is there anything that you cannot do? 😂😂🤣 You are a man filled with so many surprises. So, those tiny ones goes into the shaped bullets and you put as many as you can to get the desired impact? This is me speaking as a lay man 🤣🤣😂. You arose the desire in me to see guns differently sir.
The gun powder is placed in the primed case in a precise amount, carefully weighed. As I mention, load development is carried out to determine the best load for the rifle, the most accurate and repeatable. It is a long process but is required to create accurate long range ammunition.
There's loads of things I can't do, but what I know how to do, I do well.
😂😂🤣🤣 I agree with your last statement. What you know how to do, you do them well. I am impressed as always, sir and thank you so much for taking time to explain again.
Cool stuff, I recently got my first precision rifle chambered in 6.5 creedmoor. I'm saving all my brass cause that shit is expensive!
Thanks, I appreciate your comment.
6.5CM...Nice choice. I shoot it also and achieve well past a mile easily. It's a nice flat trajectory. If you get your system set up well it will perform. Obviously you're planning to LD your own rounds which is the only way to go really. For that reason I've added some information from Strelok Pro as below. Keep in mind this is my rifle system and yours will differ. I've started the chart at 1000m as below that it's all pretty elementary. I put in 1mph wind, full value which is why you'll see windage adjustments in the chart. The yellow is where it goes transonic. Please also keep in mind I'd usually have the chart set on 25m increments, not 50m, I've done that to fit the data in without having to scroll.
If you want 0-1000m data let me know and I'll send in another comment.
hello, how is your thumb?🙏
👍
Wow - didn't realise that gunpowder granules looked like that! Thanks for sharing, @galenkp
Annabelle 😊
Small huh? They come in different shapes though, each have different characteristics. Slower or faster burn etc.