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You have to really plan Hoi An. First visit we stayed at the back on Minh An. A 10 min walk away from tourist central but another world away in terms of mood and vibe. An Bang is the same. The weeny GH we're staying at (An Bang Purple) has only 2 rooms and more family members here than anything else. LOL

If you do your homework and either walk or bike-motorbike around, it's lovely. A little micro-culture all of its own and soooooo unlike Hanoi and Saigon, and nothing like Da Nang either.