The Miwok tribe were coastal dwellers that centered their life in the Marin County area of California. The food supply that was enjoyed were clams, mussels, limpets, and acorns. The ancient structures found in Muir Woods were used only for temporary seasonal hunting lodges and not permanent living quarters.

The first Miwok tribal members left their way of life in 1783, to live at the Mission in San Francisco. By 1810, the near extinction of the tribe was due to disease, forced labor, and religious indoctrination.

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The first automobiles arrived in 1908 into Muir Woods from Mill Valley. People would wander through the Monument casually. At the time, the canyon was raw so the canyon was damaged from haphazard driving. This destroyed some of the ground covering and natural vegetation. The community realized a change needed to take place so in 1924, cars were no longer permitted to drive in the Redwood groves, and picnicking was banned. Trail fencing was added to the scenery. The collection of plants, animal and rocks was soon prohibited. Eventually, small plots of private lands were added to the Monument in order to prevent further harm to the area.

Topography

The area surrounding Muir Woods has not changed much for thousands of years. The credit for this is given to restrictions on land ownership, conservation efforts, and the rough natural topography.

The cool and wet climate coupled with mildly dry summers is the perfect ecosystem for the flora and fauna found in Muir Woods. The two mile inland location offers an average of 35 to 60 inches of precipitation a year. The regular presence of fog can reach as high as 1,700 feet and bring humidity and moisture to the area.

The mountains are surrounded by Mount Tamalpais, high peaks, and ridges. The three peaks are East Peak that stands 2,571 feet tall, Middle Peak that stands 2,450 feet tall, and West Peak that stands 2,574 feet tall. This is all connected to 400 square miles of low mountains called the Coastal Range that sits on top of a tectonic plate.

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The variance of elevation within Muir Woods ranges from 120 feet above sea level to 1,340 feet. Throughout Muir Woods and surround areas you can find Redwood and Douglis-fir trees, chaparral shrubs, grasslands, and creeks. The Redwood trees found in the Monument are of the Sequoia sempervirens and are a distinct species that are found in the taxodium family. This is a different species than the giant Sequoias found approximately 200 miles north of Muir Woods.

John Muir explained the Monument perfectly when he said:

Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.

The largest tree in Muir Woods measures 13.5 feet in diameter and the tallest tree stands 254 feet high. The oldest tree is 1,500 years old. The lineage of some of these trees date back thousands of years. A fascinating fact about these ancient trees is that they are impervious to rotting due to high levels of tannic acid. This explains why the trees in this area age well, there are not many stumps or snags, and fallen trees continue to live.

The other special quality of Muir Woods are the beautiful plant life that lives under the Redwood trees. Some of the types of plants that can be found are sword fern, huckleberry, red sorrel, tanoak, and laurel. The lovely smell of cedar trees, willows, junipers, cottonwoods, and pines are also a lovely sight to see. Some other added plant life introduced to the area is oat grass and eucalyptus tree.

Hiking Muir Woods

Muir Woods has 6 miles of trails to enjoy and for all different hiking levels. There is a 30 minute loop and a 90 minute loop for beginners, but because of the length can be considered intermediate. The 90 minute loop has an extended trail that surrounds Mount Tamalpais State Park.

In modern times, the Monument remains in a conservation state due to some restrictions. Pet, bicycles, smoking, horses, and camping are not permitted in Muir Woods. Some trails are asphalted or boarded, but most contain dirt, they are narrow, steep and have tree roots spread throughout. So the natural terrain is an added protection. This would mean wheelchairs and strollers would not maneuver well in this terrain.

If you are ever in the vicinity of San Francisco, California, I am sure you will love taking a nice walk through Muir Woods National Monument. Parking is scarce and the entrance fee is $10 USD, so come well prepared. I suggest bringing some layered clothing, water, and a small snack you can pack out. The visit is well worth your time. You may feel as I do walking through these ancient woods, and that is the wonder of a time period you thought was long gone, but actually still exists today. Peace.