CONSTRUCTION AND MODELING OF A DRESS INSPIRED BY JAPANESE FASHION DESIGNERS PART 2

Hi,
Today I am posting a tutorial about how to model a dress pattern by altering a basic dress pattern. I already posted one dress tutorial, but this is for a second one from the same collection. The dress is designed by me and the dress is really hard to construct, but I tried my best to explain it step by step. Hope you like it and don't get lost.

SKETCH OF THE MODEL

CONSTRUCTION OF THE DRESS

In order to model the selected dress pattern, it is first necessary to construct a basic dress pattern.

MODELING THE DRESS PATTERN

The front and back of the dress are made up of 4 cut pieces, with some fronts sewn together with the backs at the shoulder or side seams. This is due to the smaller number of connecting points that would be hidden below the fold. Front and back parts, respectively joined back and front parts under the names PD1, PD3, PD4; SD1, SD3, SD4 are expanded by being cut and the addition for the folds is added between the cuts. The folds are folded from the outside inwards.
Because the dress is not symmetrical, the "halves" of the dress are first joined to show the entire front and back. After that, contours are marked, where the dress is cut with the fact that if the contour lines cross the darts, the lines are "straightened out", and then the curve continues. To save time, most contour lines go through the tops of the darts so that they are not removed but added to the folds, which expands the dress in an area where the dress expands even further, which is the goal with this model.

STEP 1

Outline the contours, that is, the cutting points on the base cut. In the front part, the right dart is extended to the chest line. With the dart coming down from the shoulder to the chest, 1.5 cm of the dart is subtracted and shifted towards the neckline to give a "longer" neckline.

The front of the dress with the contours outlined.

The back of the dress with the contours outlined.

PART 2

Separate front parts that will fit in the area where the darts are located.

The front parts are separated and connected in the area of the darts, that is, the "transferred" darts

The back parts are separated and connected in the area of the darts, that is, the "transferred" darts

STEP 3

Cut parts PD1 and SD1 are connected at the shoulder seam, and the cutting is marked with red lines where the area for folds will be added.
Below are the the pattern parts PD2 and SD2.

Joined PD3 and SD3 in the flank area. The darts were transferred to the marked "red" lines. The red lines indicate the cutting location. In between the marked lines the area for folds will be added and the transferred darts were counted into the area for the folds.

PD4 and SD4 are joined in the flank area. The darts were transferred to the marked "red" lines. The red lines indicate the cutting location. In between the marked lines the area for folds will be added and the transferred darts were counted into the area for the folds.

STEP 4

PD1 and SD2 are joined in the area of the right shoulder and are cut along the marked “red” lines and in between the lines 2 + 2 cm, 4 cm respectively were added in between the spaces.

The PD3 and SD3 are joined in the area below the sleeve or side seam, and are cut along the marked “red” lines and space is added for the folds. In the inner "smaller cut" 3 + 3 cm or 6 cm were added to the spaces, and in the outer "longer cut" 4 + 4 cm and 8 cm respectively were added to the spaces. The darts from step 3 used for the intermediate space for folds, that is, they are included in the sum.

The PD4 was cut along the marked "red" lines and space for the folds was added. In the inner "smaller cut" 4 + 4 cm or 8 cm respectively were added in between the marked lines, and in the outer "longer cut" 5.5 + 5.5 cm or 11 cm were added in between the marked lines.

The SD4 was cut along the marked “red” lines and the space for the folds was added. In the inner "smaller cut" 4 + 4 cm or 8 cm were added in between the spaces, and in the outer "longer cut" 5.5 + 5.5 cm or 11 cm. The space between the folds that will be joined to the front in the flank area is rounded to create a fold that fits more flat like the others in this pattern part when fused to the front.

STEP 5

Adding 1 cm around all the patterns, direction of putting the pattern on the fabric, direction of joining the folds

Trimmings added for stitches (1cm), the heading line basis for the fabric and direction for joining folds on the pattern parts PD1SD1, PD2,SD2.

Trimmings added for stitches (1cm), the heading line basis for the fabric and direction for joining the folds on the pattern part PD3SD3.

Trimmings added for stitches (1cm), the heading line basis for the fabric and direction for joining the folds on the pattern part PD4. 5cm was added to the hem for the hem, and 5cm was removed from the lining to pull the hem of the dress towards the inside, as in the sketch of the model.

Trimmings added for stitches (1cm), the heading line basis for the fabric and direction for joining the folds on the pattern part SD4. 5cm was added to the hem for the hem, and 5cm was removed from the lining to pull the hem of the dress towards the inside, as in the sketched model.

THAT'S IT!

So, there you have it! My second modelling tutorial. The dress is really hard to construct, so if you are a beginner I don't recommend this for starting. However, people who know how to alter dress patterns, please leave a comment and let me know what you think. I will be more than happy to replay if you have any confusions.

Spreading the love,

Emma Stephanie

xxx

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