Museum Treasure Hunt: Inside the Dominican Monastery in Bol, Croatia

Hello Hive Community, hello Museum Lovers!

Today I am going to take you on a journey of #art and #history. We will enter a sacred place and take a look at the treasures it hides.

Situated on the peninsula of Glavica on the island Brač in the Adriatic sea, the Dominican Monastery has for sure the best view. It seems as if the monks booked the premium seats of the first row in the show of #nature's wonders.

However, here's the amazing fact: The monks didn't get to chose the place, it was assigned to them by the authorities of the city Bol in 1475. I was wondering why, but it became pretty clear, once I learned that the monks where in charge of the sick and infectious. Better put them outside the city walls.

The monastery was built on the remainders of the episcopal palace dating back to the 12th century. The church’s altar shows Tintoretto’s painting of Madonna with Child, which makes the visit worth-while in terms of famous-painter-name- dropping. When I entered the church by the side door which opens to the courtyard of the monastery, an organ lesson took place inside. It was a sweet situation, the organ pipes being lightly tortured by inexperienced hands. The whole setting was suddenly so real and tangible: at the east end the sacred altar with #Tintoretto's masterpiece, at opposite the very profane attempts to master the mighty #instrument.

Tintoretto, Madonna with Child, Altar

But let's step back out into the courtyard, look up at the tower which resides over the peninsula as a #landmark and pillar of faith. Let's turn left and enter the #museum through a small door.

Inside the vaulted chamber you feel a bit like in a #treasure hunt. The museum is a true #collection and compilation of clerical artifacts. It showcases the crafting skills of the 16th to 18th century in the designs of relics, paintings and songbooks.

Jacobello del Fiore, Reliquary with depiction of Christ the Savior, 15th century

This work of art is formed like a picture with a frame and shows the face of Christ the Savior in the center. Created by the Venetian #artist Jacobello del Fiore, the reliquary offers several components. The frame of gold with round and diamond shaped medallions depicts Dominican saints, and in the concavities rest the inscriptions of relics, amongst others St John the Baptist, St. Ursula and notable 21.000 virgins.
On a side note: I had to mention the saints and the 21.000 virgins, it sounds so quirky and made me laugh, to know that they are part of the frame. Also, I had to pick this picture because I thought the face was a perfect example of RBF. I mean, please, look at those eyes! I always think about Christ as a kind person, but not here. Pure condescendence.

Dominican monasteries were spread out on the islands, this reliquary originally belonged to the one on Čiovo Island close to the city of Trogir. Learning about this, I thought that the monks were pretty much everywhere. Given their tasks such as looking after the sick, they were not only representatives of their religion but also an important part of society back then.

Adoration of the Shepherds, Unknown Venetian Painter, 18th century, detail

Looking at the beautiful complexion of the Virgin Mary I started wondering about the Catholic #color #codes in these pictures: the blue cloak of Virgin Mary, her orange-red gown.

Blue was reserved for Virgin Mary as it was a very expensive color and therefore hard to get. It was used to underline the uniqueness of her person. In the Old and New Testament blue and blue sapphire were equal to the sky and thus to heaven. The sapphire symbolized the forces of heaven in medieval times. Red was associated with blood and symbolized the earthly existence. In her clothes thus Mary connects heaven and earth.

I was captivated by the beauty and peace in her face and the well composed arrangement of her being seated amongst the shepherds and St. Joseph.
When studying depictions of the Virgin Mary she is not always painted as evenly as in this picture. Although the painter is unknown, in my opinion he has done a really amazing job.

GRADUALE DE TEMPORE I, 1401 parchment, Gothic minuscule, ff. 291

I had no idea what a gradual was, so I looked it up for this post.
Here you go: a gradual is a liturgical book that contains sung parts of the Catholic Mass. The initial letter P depicts the Nativity of Christ and is accompanied by the Introit for the third Mass of Christmas.

The text reads:
Puer natus est nobis, et filius datus est nobis: cuis impertum super humerum eius: et vocabitur nomen eius, magni consilit Angelus.
A child is born to us and a Son is given to us: Whose government is upon His shoulder: and His Name shall be called, the Angel of Great Counsel.

As a book lover I had to share this old piece with you. It was created before printing was invented, hand painted by an #artist and monk, dedicated to the rituals of his faith.

A few steps downstairs I discover some #archeological remnants which were found in excavations in surrounding areas. Next to the amphoras I am captivated by a piece of relief from the neighboring village of Murvica.

Amphoras

Piece of relief from the Dragon’s Cave above the village of Murvica.

About a 15 mins car drive from Bol and from the Dominican Monastery you can visit the Dragon's Cave. Hermits lived here, dedicated to prayer, penitence and fasting. The relief shows a dragon menacing the child (Jesus) and a symbolic depiction of the Virgin Mary clad in sun and moon.

I can see the dragon and a face, what can you see? On another note – we need to do a research on dragons, I am fascinated by the fact that they show up in mythology, fairy tales, allegoric depictions of saints and obviously as a metaphor for the evil. Did dragons exist at some time, there are just too many traces of them in our story-telling? But that's for another post. (On a second thought maybe too much fasting leads to hallucinations, that's where you get all the dragons from ;))

Leaving the little museum I face the entrance of the village cemetery. I know it sounds a bit flaky, but I cannot resist visiting graveyards when I am abroad. All the names that are a proof of existence and of a finite life span. I cannot help wondering who these people were, what they did and whether they lived happy lives. If I was ever to write fiction, I'd pick the protagonists' names in a cemetery. I love to give names a kind of second chance and create a new narrative.

Headstone for the late Dominican monks

On my way back to the city I pass by a little church. It is dedicated to Sveti (=Saint) Ivan and Teodor. It is the true witness of the first sacred stones on the peninsula, dating back to the 9th/10th century. And yet, this small church is not even the first edifice built there. It had been erected on the remains of an antique building with a water cistern, which is now hiding in the basement of the church. Here you go: The whole sacred settlement was about life supply in the first place, which is the foundation of all worship.

Small church of Sv. Ivan and Teodor

Here my little treasure hunt comes to an end. I hope I dug up some interesting facts for you. Thank you for staying with me until the end. If you liked it, please leave a comment. Writing is much more fun, if you share your thoughts with me!

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All pictures taken by me.